SCOTLAND BY SUP

There’s no better way to immerse yourself in the Scottish landscape than by paddleboard. Hannah Francis from our Fort William store takes a three-day voyage up Loch Shiel.

With three days to complete the 18 mile journey,

It turns out that ‘slow adventure’ is my kind of experience. As we turn the big corner on Loch Shiel and a vast glen opens up before us, I feel no urge to dig hard into the water or race to the finish line. We’re blissfully cruising; on cloud nine. And despite the expected change in the weather, we take our time nosing into nooks and crannies along the shore and continue to enjoy a relaxed conversation while we paddle.

I’ve joined Ellis Brigham team members Simon Pitman and Andy Johnson for a three-day trip from Acharacle to Glenfinnan, stand up paddleboarding almost the full length of Loch Shiel, a distance of 18 miles. It’s day two, and having yawned, stretched and mooched about over several cups of tea, we’ve made a graceful leap onto our boards and glided smoothly out onto the water. Well, the tea and yawning part is accurate. In truth, the three of us are fairly new to SUP expeditions and are still mastering balance with the extra weight on board. Nevertheless, we can appreciate the scenery, and the view as we round that corner quickly etches itself into my memory. With mountains towering on both sides, it’s like we’re in the famous Great Hall at Hogwarts – the sky an enchanted ceiling dancing with ominous magic – except we’re very much out in the wild. I’m lost for words, so I just laugh out loud, senses overflowing.

Paddleboarding is an odd kind of activity. One minute you’re paddling hard, the next you’re standing still, then lying down or even just holding your paddle up in the air like a sail. It’s a lovely mix, and as with a wobble board, the small muscles in your ankles, knees and core don’t really get a break – but as you adjust, it’s easy to forget that your body is working hard. That’s my kind of exercise! It’s also very accessible to those who have never owned any kind of vessel before; there are loads of reasonably-priced kits on the market, complete with board, fins, paddle, leash, pump and bag.

As with all watersports, though, it’s important to exercise caution. We chose Loch Shiel for its freshwater, non-tidal nature and because it is relatively narrow, with easy access to both sides. It also boasts civilisation at either end and a wonderfully remote middle section. The 18-mile plus distance was a commitment, but with three days to play with we were confident in our ability to reach the other end safely. We didn’t have any clue where we were going to camp, but with naïve optimism we assumed there would be loads of options (more on that later).

I’d never done an overnight SUP trip before – in fact I’d never even carried a bag on my board – but I’m lucky enough to own some pretty good hillwalking kit and it packed easily into three dry bags. Two of these are placed on the front of my Red Voyager, helping to keep the nose down so its V-shaped hull can cut a straight-line through the water; the remaining bag is strapped to the back. We were nervous about how our boards would handle under all this weight, but once we finally slipped into the water we found it only made them feel more stable. Nonetheless, setting off on that first day I felt a surprising amount of trepidation, mixed with tummy-clenching excitement.

Day two proves to be the most challenging. Persistent rain showers soak me through and there are some choppy conditions to contend with, but kneeling for balance my board steams calmly ahead, straight as an arrow – and to be honest, without much skill on my part. Still on our knees, we stick our paddles up and sail, the stiffening breeze providing both a helpful motor and a gentle reminder of the power of nature. Suffice to say I spend most of the day in this position, at the edge of my comfort zone but feeling safer for having two friends – and the shore – nearby.

It is surprisingly difficult to find a suitable campsite. We pull ashore at a couple of spots and poke around among the bog and tussocks, only to beat a retreat back onto the water. It’s easy after a trip to say that everything was “cruisey” or that it “totally went to plan”, but in reality there are often some hairy moments, and as the daylight wears thin we begin to wonder if we’ll need to just carry on paddling to the end of the loch. The atmosphere among the crew is a little stressed and awkward. Do we call it? Luckily, and with hope fading fast,

There

“With mountains towering on both sides, it’s like we’re in the famous Great Hall at Hogwarts – the sky an enchanted ceiling” we find the perfect spot. By this point it really is getting dark. There’s a lesson to be learned here, and we spend the evening standing around our little portable fire pit in the drizzle. A fitting end to a humbling day.

We finish the trip back in more comfortable SUP territory. In sight of the Glenfinnan Monument, we see the world-famous Jacobite Express chugging over the viaduct, skirting around the perfect island of rocks and ancient Scots pines. It’s a dream spot, and I can immediately appreciate why paddleboarding is among the fastest growing sports in the world. I feel relaxed, remarkably stable on my board and soothingly close to water and nature. The lily lagoons, tucked in where the Callop River meets the loch, are an extra gift. I’d encourage anyone to give it a go. Our three-day trip has been challenging, but by splitting the route into modest distances and leaving space in the schedule to relax in camp (OK, perhaps not that second evening!), it feels like the perfect balance. There’s plenty of time to talk along the way, and our conversation spans the full range of banter, deep chat and comfortable silence as we appreciate our surroundings and the true privilege of being able to make this journey.

I write this amid the grumpy aftermath of a car crash, nursing my injuries and with a long restful summer ahead. But it’s trips like this that are going to form a big part of my recovery and, ultimately, my future in the outdoors. I don’t often feel a desire to push myself to the physical limit, and I’m certainly not the sweaty record-breaking type, though I like to think I’m pretty gnarly in my own way. I’m very proud of my comfort and competence in the hills, and my sturdy calf muscles and stoic toes. What I really crave is feeling totally present in nature; those moments of serenity, with no pressure to move on – perhaps even reading my book on a summit, or eating something as ridiculous to carry as a grapefruit. Multi-day trips are my happy place, and though this paddleboarding adventure felt like a bit of a leap into the unknown, it certainly won’t be my last.

Watch ‘Calm’ a short film of this expedition on YouTube. @ellisbrigham.