Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review 2024

Green Product Protection

Environmentally

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Company Focus

Lallemand unveils new personal care ingredients

Vantage innovates to enhance formulation performance

Symrise launches olfactive flower extracts

Exploring the senses at the SAAFFI seminar

Lipotec uncovers secrets of the hydrobiome

Unlock radiant skin by reversing epidermal senescence

Botanichem explores age prevention from nature

IMCD brings Chemyunion’s Iselight to South Africa

Revolutionising skincare with ectoin

Croda launches phytoceramides for ageing skin

Upcycled coffee ingredients for sustainable skincare

Puregas embarks on a

Sun Care

How to balance performance and aesthetics in sunscreens

Pharmaceutical Focus

New pharma repacking and blending hub unveiled

Vega’s smart solutions for pharma applications

the AMA’s new

PAMSA discusses sustainability matters in packaging production

Healthy skin is in!

Anti-ageing has stepped aside, making way for healthy ageing in skincare. With the concept of ‘anti-ageing’ now often perceived as negative by consumers worldwide, it’s no surprise that the skincare narrative is changing to ‘well-ageing’ where having healthy skin is prioritised at any age. Some of the buzzwords stemming from this trend include epidermal senescence, cellular detoxification, barrier repair and microbiome health. These concepts and more are highlighted in the May edition of P&C Review. Turn to page 12 for our bumper well-ageing skincare feature on the unique skincare benefits of thermal waters, an active ingredient that acts on senescent keratinocytes, and how ectoin – a bioactive peptide – is set to revolutionise skincare formulations with its moisture retention benefits. We also showcase the sustainable solar initiative of Puregas. This supplier of purified and blended hydrocarbon gas propellants and foam blowing products

has implemented a sustainable energy strategy that will minimise the company's environmental footprint while ensuring business continuity. Read more about this on page 26

In our pharmaceutical focus on page 30, we look at Brenntag South Africa’s repacking and blending facility dedicated to meeting the needs of the local pharmaceutical and nutraceutical markets. We also explore smart solutions from VEGA for pharma manufacturing applications. We’re excited to introduce our readers to the new executive director of the Aerosol Manufacturers Association of South Africa , Chris Waldron. Turn to page 35 to read our exclusive interview with Chris in which he shares his vision to make a meaningful difference in this role.

Enjoy the read!

The team

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Lallemand unveils new personal care ingredients

Global microorganism supplier Lallemand and the recently acquired Evolva by Lallemand, took part in in-cosmetics Global as a first-time exhibitor.

Lallemand develops, manufactures, and commercialises bacteria, yeasts, and their derivatives. The company now offers a line of prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics for the skin microbiome. Three flagship ingredients were showcased in Paris:

• Lallbiome 200 (inactivated Lactobacillus Helveticus HA-122), a postbiotic ingredient that promotes cell anti-senescence to support healthy ageing.

• Seven unique exopolysaccharides (EPS), including six sulfated EPS, derived from marine microorganism metabolites developed to prevent the formation of pathogen biofilms (also in oral applications) and fight blemishes.

• Beauty Yeast Mask, a second-skin beauty mask with a matrix made mainly from microorganisms, including beta-glucan yeast fractions. Developed with peel-off mask specialist TechNature, the moisturising, soothing, antiageing mask improves radiance and reduces redness and imperfections. These ingredients and formulation concepts are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals.

Vantage innovates to enhance formulation performance

The global supplier of naturally derived specialty ingredients and formulation technologies presented two new ingredients and introduces a set of 17 new formulation prototypes at incosmetics Global.

“This year, Vantage delivered a compelling showcase of high performance, sustainable solutions by integrating marketing intel and technical expertise. By understanding and anticipating the needs of the end user, we have created 17 new formulations aimed at accelerating our customers’ innovation pipelines, positioning ourselves as a partner within the personal care value chain,” says Beto Pino, vice president technical marketing & innovation, personal care at Vantage.

Recognising the preferences and challenges of each generation from Gen Alpha to Boomers, the Vantage concept entitled Your Life Choice illustrates how personal care is a huge part of consumers’ lives and plays a central role in fulfilling their needs and aspirations.

The 17 new formulations include skincare, hair care, colour cosmetics and multifunctional prototypes. They are positioned to address the diverse skincare and beauty needs of each generation. The formulations incorporate solutions from Vantage which support trends towards conscious consumerism and responsible sourcing and enable more sustainable formulation development.

Symrise launches olfactive flower extracts

The Cosmetic Ingredients division at Symrise introduces Flowerconcentrole, a collection of highquality, easy-to-formulate olfactive flower extracts that works well with all products and skin types. Thanks to Symrise’s Actimood technology, the range of extracts brings mood-enhancing properties to formulations. This helps brands deliver neurocosmetic benefits to consumers.

The transparent or slightly opalescent Flowerconcentrole liquids emanate a delicate and characteristic scent. They harness the neuro-scientific link between the olfactive properties of plant extracts and the stimulation of positive emotions. The new collection is proven to evoke feelings of relaxation, well-being, protection, joy, and freshness. With Flowerconcentrole, skincare brands can reinvent cosmetic routines and capture opportunities in holistic skincare. They can offer a sensory experience that strengthens the connection between skin health and emotional well-being.

“With Flowerconcentrole, skincare brands can reinvent cosmetic routines and capture opportunities in holistic skincare”

With this launch, Symrise makes another important contribution to the clean beauty movement. The functional plant extracts are sustainably sourced from Madagascar, France, and Bulgaria – with full traceability to the field – using best ethical and environmental practices. Made from 100% natural (in line with ISO 16128) and upcycled ingredients, and readily biodegradable, the collection helps brands meet the growing consumer demand for more sustainable cosmetics.

Exploring the senses with SAAFFI

The 22nd annual SAAFFI seminar and workshop, which took place on 14 March, lived up to its reputation of being a ‘must-attend event’ on the fragrance and flavour industry’s calendar. The theme of this year’s event was ‘unlocking our sense-sational world’ with the programme centred on sensory storytelling through flavours and fragrances.

The way we interact with the world around us – be it personal, professional, physical, spiritual, intellectual or emotional – is through our five senses. Our reactions to these stimuli define who we are, what we stand for and what we can achieve. Reframed, the five senses are not only of importance to the flavour, fragrance, sensory and consumer science professions, but are also the means with which we respond to every aspect of our environment.

This thinking formed the basis of the 2024 seminar programme, which featured a fascinating line-up of speakers. Dr Annemarie Lombard, founder and CEO of Sensory Intelligence, discussed the connection between people and space from a sensory perspective and how we, as humans, process millions of sensory messages uniquely.

Dr Carina Bothma of the University of the Free State shared a thought-provoking talk on the vital role of sensory perception in the product development journey.

TRENDS AND INSPIRATIONAL FLOWER JOURNEYS

The two trends presentations, one on flavour trends and the other on fragrance trends in Africa, stood out as exceptionally interesting talks. It was fascinating to learn from Niki Bougaard of Givaudan SA how African heritage rituals are influencing new product development when it comes to beauty.

Floral designer, Jill Manson touched the hearts and minds of the attendees with her beautiful talk on the sensory allure of flowers. During this session, we learned how inspirational flowers can bring botany to the

"African heritage rituals are influencing new product development when it comes to beauty"

boardroom for self-discovery and strategy development. Jill explored how a journey using flowers and plants can promote wellness and change in today's modern tech-driven world.

The SAAFFI seminar also featured a handson workshop that saw delegates identify and recognise their sensory selves. This session was thoroughly enjoyed by all.

For more information on upcoming events and training hosted by SAAFFI, visit the industry association’s website saaffi.co.za.•

2024 SAAFFI seminar highlights

What’s on in 2024

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The hydrobiome – a dynamic solution for sensitive skin

Experts from Lipotec, a division of Lubrizol Life Science Beauty, uncover the secrets of the hydrobiome and its potential for revolutionising sensitive skincare. Their journey of discovery has resulted in the development of Zenerity biotech ingredient.

By

Albert Soley, Mari Carmen Lidón, Eva Gómez, Gemma Mola and Raquel Delgado of Lipotec

The word ‘spa’ is a Latin acronym for the term Salus Per Aquam , which translated means ‘health by means of water.’ The origin of hydrotherapy, or the use of water for health purposes, dates to ancient times. It is believed to have originated in ancient Greek civilisation but reached its golden age during the Roman era. Beyond hygienic purposes, hydrotherapy evolved into a scientific discipline, with thermal treatments prescribed based on specific indications and subjected to medical supervision (Cacciapuoti et al ., 2020). Prominent physicians like Galen and Celso studied the composition of water, its effects, and clinical applications. Even some of the thermae were recognised for their distinct therapeutic properties (Gianfaldoni et al. , 2017).

Historically, thermal waters have been utilised to soothe the body and mind due, in part, to their ability to relieve sensitive

and inflamed skin. As a result, numerous studies have been carried out to establish a link between thermal waters and their chemical composition. For example, thermal waters are known to be hypertonic and their high mineral concentration is easily absorbed by the skin, improving its physiological functions.

" The exploration of thermal waters has uncovered unique skincare benefits"

In recent times, however, scientists have turned their attention to investigating the role of the microbiota present in thermal waters, known as the hydrobiome (Mourelle et al. , 2023). It has been

confirmed that certain bioactive efficacy of thermal waters is not solely attributed to their mineral composition, but also to the complex synergies and activities of the non-pathogenic hydrobiome. Previous studies investigated a Fictibacillus sp. isolated from the Comano spring waters in Tuscany, Italy, aiming to uncover its potential regenerative properties.

Results showed that stimulation of cell proliferation was improved after the interaction between skin fibroblasts and a bacteria enriched fraction. The authors concluded that this favourable effect is not solely associated with the well-known action of the water itself (Nicoletti et al. , 2019).

EXPLORING THE HYDROBIOME

The composition and biological characteristics of the hydrobiome are still largely unknown (Aries MF et al., 2014, Mahe YF et al. , 2013). Therefore, the project

that led to the development of Zenerity™ biotech ingredient for sensitive skin began with the investigation of microorganisms isolated from different thermal waters around the world.

A biological library was developed and tested against inflammation. After a screening process, a microorganism isolated in Campania, a region in southern Italy, emerged as demonstrating the greatest antiinflammatory effect. The strain was isolated from a sulphurous spring in the area using the dilution-plating technique.

Based on the 16S rRNA gene sequence, phylogenetic analysis was performed, showing the microorganism as a bacterium belonging to the genus Bacillus , within the Firmicutes phylum . Firmicutes, alongside other bacterial groups such as proteobacteria and actinobacteria, is abundantly found in thermal waters. Bacillus species have been widely studied due to their ability to produce secondary metabolites, such as antimicrobial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds. Indeed, in vitro and in vivo testing of Zenerity biotech ingredient confirmed that it could target the inflammatory pathway and alleviate sensitive skin discomfort.

LOW TO NO IMPACT

• Renewable carbon – the microorganism thrives using mild raw materials. Carbon and nitrogen sources (sugar and

NEW WAYS TO CARE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

The exploration of thermal waters and their associated microbiota, known as the hydrobiome, has uncovered unique skincare benefits.

The launch of Zenerity biotech ingredient, derived from Bacillus sp. from a sulphurous spring in the Campania region, exemplifies the use of the hydrobiome to address skin inflammation and care for sensitive skin. Furthermore, the eco-friendly sourcing and production of Zenerity biotech ingredient ensures minimal impact on nature. This research opens new avenues for harnessing the power of thermal waters and their hydrobiome in development effective and sustainable solutions for sensitive skin care. Zenerity biotech ingredient is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

REFERENCES:

non-animal peptones) are completely renewable, and no other raw materials apart from mineral salts are used.

Zenerity biotech ingredient has a 100% natural origin content (ISO16128) and Cosmos attestation. The sourcing and production of the active ingredient have a very low impact on nature, ensuring the preservation of biodiversity and ecological balance in terms of:

Did you know?

Campania is renowned for its abundance of hydrothermal sites, which are yet to be thoroughly explored in terms of their unique microbial communities and potential activities. The thermal waters of Campania have long been regarded as NepenthésPharmakon, meaning ‘medication against pain and suffering’. Even today, this myth and fame continue to attract millions of tourists to Campania from all over the world.

• Clean technology – the process comprises fermentation to culture the microorganism and only physical operations to purify the active ingredient. Other than water, no solvents are used in the process. Furthermore, the microorganism used has not been genetically modified and is classified as non-pathogenic, adhering to the minimum biosafety level (BSL 1).

• Low impact on nature – the isolation of microorganisms from aquatic sources has a low impact, as a single droplet of water provides sufficient biological material to sustain the manufacturing of the active ingredient for years. A small amount of raw materials is used to produce the active ingredient i.e. one megatonne of the active ingredient can be produced using only 2kg of sugar harvested from less than 0.005 Ha of fertile soil. Thus, competition with land dedicated to the food chain is almost insignificant.

1. Cacciapuoti, S.; Luciano, M.A.; Megna, M.; Annunziata, M.C.; Napolitano, M.; Patruno, C.; Scala, E.; Colicchio, R.; Pagliuca, C.; Salvatore, P.; Fabbrocini, G. The Role of Thermal Water in Chronic Skin Diseases Management: A Review of the Literature. J. Clin. Med. 2020, 9(9), 3047.

2. Gianfaldoni, S.; Tchernev, G.; Wollina, U.; Roccia, M.; Fioranelli, M.; Gianfaldoni, R.; Lotti, T. History of the Baths and Thermal Medicine. Open Access Maced. J. Med. Sci. 2017, 5(4), 566-568.

3. Mourelle, M.L.; Gómez, C.; Legido, J. Hydrobiome of Thermal Waters: Potential Use in Dermocosmetics. Cosmetics. 2023, 10(4), 94.

4. Nicoletti, G.; Saler, M.; Tresoldi, M.M.; Faga, A.; Benedet, M.; Cristofolini, M. Regenerative effects of spring waterderived bacterial lysates on human skin fibroblast in in vitro culture: Preliminary results. J. Int. Med. Res. 2019, 47(11), 5777–5786.

5. Aries, M.F.; Duplan, H.; Hernandez-Pigeon, H.; Galliano, M.F.; Castex-Rizzi, N.; Bessou-Touya, S.; Nguyen, T. I-modulia, an Aquaphilus dolomiae extract, stimulates innate immune response through Toll-like receptor activation. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. May 2014, AB63.

6. Mahe, Y.F.; Perez, M.J.; Tacheau, C.; Fanchon, C.; Martin, R.; Rousset, F.; Seite, S. A new Vitreoscilla filiformis extract grown on spa water-enriched medium activates endogenous cutaneous antioxidant and antimicrobial defenses through a potential Toll-like receptor 2/ protein kinase C, zeta transduction pathway. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2013, 6 191–196.

Lubrizol Life Science Beauty –www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za

Unlock radiant skin by reversing epidermal senescence

To reverse epidermal senescence in an entirely new way, Codif has developed Regetaste. This upcycled active ingredient won silver in the actives category at the 2023 in-cosmetics Asia Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards, a bronze in-cosmetics Global award in the active ingredients category, and first prize in the BSB Awards for active ingredients.

Cosmetics have a direct connection with our senses, from seeing and smelling a product to hearing it, and even tasting it. Yes – experts believe that even taste is a sense that is connected to cosmetics, particularly skincare.

According to research, we all have bitterness receptors (TAS2Rs) on the surface of our skin. TAS2Rs activate epidermal differentiation processes and inhibit cellular senescence. Senescence is involved in the breakdown of the cutaneous barrier, leading to a dull complexion and rough skin.

To reverse epidermal senescence, Codif has created Regetaste – an up-cycled active ingredient developed from the pomace of a Breton apple, the Marie Ménard, which is commonly known as a bitter cider apple. By activating cell regeneration, Regetaste strengthens the skin’s barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smoother, softer, fresher and more radiant.

UPCYCLED ORGANIC APPLE POMACE

In developing Regetaste, Codif drew inspiration from the Marie Menard organic apple pomace. This apple is grown in an agricultural cooperative with an ‘AgriConfiance’ policy in the Côtes d’Armor region in Pleudihen, France.

Did you know?

As part of an innate survival reflex, early man instinctively rejected the bitter flavours of the plants he picked, which were usually poisonous. Most bitter substances are produced by plants, which use bitterness as a defense mechanism against pathogenic and toxic agents.

Once the apples have been harvested and pressed, the juice is used by the beverage industry to make apple cider. The pomace – which contains the residual pulp, skin, stem and seeds – is dried. Although traditionally used in the pectin industry or for animal feed, Codif has found an alternative use for the pomace in skincare.

The dried apple pomace is extracted with a water/propanol1,3diol mixture to obtain the certified organic water-soluble active ingredient, Regetaste, which contains:

• 100 to 400 ppm of malic acid

• 0.3 to 1.3g/L of polyphenols

• phloridzin , avicularin and hyperoside.

A NEW ANTI-AGEING TARGET

Until now, cosmetics have focused on fibroblasts for skin senescence communication. Yet senescence affects other parts of the skin. To gather more data on this, Codif initiated the Poly-Mer project. This was a colossal undertaking

THE ANTI-AGEING HERO

Regetaste acts on senescent keratinocytes, with outstanding results. These include:

• enhanced barrier function

• improved skin texture smoother, softer skin

• new skin effect with freshness and radiance.

a model of senescent skin, Poly-Mer identified that senescent keratinocytes lead to the de-structuring the stratum corneum, a loss of cohesion, reduced thickness of the epidermis and a reduction in the number of living cells.

The mechanism of action of Regetaste is centered on activating and increasing TAS2Rs, which are the skin’s bitterness receptors. In addition to reducing the senescence of keratinocytes, Regetaste can reverse the senescence of fibroblasts.

Regetaste is available in South Africa from Vantage. The active ingredient is suitable for skin and body care applications with moisturising, hydrating and Illuminating claims. It can also be used in exfoliating, resurfacing, smoothing, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle applications. Contact Johrinda Nel for more information. •

Age prevention from nature

The quest for a youthful appearance is an ongoing journey for many consumers. While there’s no magic potion, the power of nature offers a wealth of ingredients to combat signs of ageing.

Organic Bioactives from New Zealand combines modern skincare science and time-proven traditional knowledge to pioneer the next generation of certified organic cosmetic and nutraceutical bioactives without compromising on ingredient efficacy or the environment. All Organic Bioactives’ ingredients are sourced in New Zealand and produced using traditional harvesting practices.

The OceanDerMX® range offers ideal solutions to fight ageing and address agerelated skin concerns. OceanDerMX Lift & Firm is a synchronised alliance of New Zealand’s red seaweed and Mamaku black fern. This unique ingredient offers a single multitasking input that can replace multiple ingredients, significantly reducing formulating time and manufacturing costs.

"Red Seaweed has a hydrating and plumping effect on skin"

The native red seaweed has a hydrating and plumping effect on skin which is attributed to the mix of versatile biomimetic sulphated gycosaminoglycans (sGAG). These natural biopolymers form a fishnet like matrix that helps hold water molecules, while acting as a structural scaffold to tighten skin.

Mamaku black fern produces mucilage containing glucuronomannans, which play a

major role in forming a viscoelastic matrix with rapid hydration benefits. Consequently, this synergistic activity provides immediate lifting and tightening of the skin.

The result is an active that diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This has been proven in in vivo studies on candidates with visible crow’s feet. There was a significant improvement in appearance of crow’s feet when treated with 5% OceanDerMX Lift & Firm. It also plumps, hydrates and revitalises skin and protects it from water loss – all common causes of premature ageing. Suitable applications include antiageing skincare, hydration boosters and cosmeceuticals.

DETOX AND PROTECT SKIN

OceanDerMX Restore & Protect combines the same native red seaweed and Mamaku with certified organic green tea and blackcurrants, offering outstanding detoxifying and antioxidant activity while maximising restoration and protection of the skin via bold yet different modes of action.

EGCG is the major catechin in green tea which mainly has a protective function on the skin. It reduces reactive oxygen species (ROS) by inhibiting the infiltration of UV-induced, ROSproducing CD116+ cells, while up-regulating

epidermal antioxidant enzymes. It also diminishes oxidative stress by reducing inflammatory processes and managing the expression of proinflammatory cytokines like IL-6 and IL-12.

EGCG is also known to stimulate hair growth by inducing the proliferation of human dermal papilla cells via a cell proliferative pathway and an anti-apoptotic pathway. While EGCG inhibits the activity of MMPs, the abundance of anthocyanins from New Zealandgrown blackcurrants helps restore the production of elastin and collagen I and III. Blackcurrants also have UVB protective and anti-inflammatory effects, as one particular anthocyanin, Cyanidin-3-O-glucoside (C3G), is known to reduce the UV-induced expression of proinflammatory cytokine IL-8, which causes oxidative stress.

The benefits of OceanDerMX Restore & Protect include outstanding detoxifying and antioxidant activity, and moisture retention. Suitable applications include cosmeceutical products for prematurely aged skin, night creams and overnight leave on masks, skin and hair repair and detox creams and masks, as well as sheet masks.

Organic Bioactives’ ingredients are available in South Africa from Botanichem. •

Shaping

At IMCD Beauty & Personal Care we embrace ingenuity and passion as we embark in a constant quest to help you empower people’s Beauty.

With each innovative solution we develop worldwide we seek out trends and identify whats next in a sustainable, efficient and profitable way.

IMCD South Africa W www.imcdsa.co.za E courtney.holley@imcdsa.co.za

A new path to radiant skin

With a focus on lipofuscin, Chemyunion has pioneered Iselight, a solution that targets ‘cellular waste’ by enhancing the homeostasis of the cellular detoxification system.

Age spots emerge as pigmented lesions ranging in colour from light brown to black and varying in size. Typically found on sun-exposed skin, these spots not only result from the accumulation of melanin but also involve the presence of ‘cellular waste’ or lipofuscin.1,2

MECHANISM OF ACTION

Lipofuscin, a yellow-brown pigment, accumulates in ageing cells due to residues of cellular material that are not fully digested or eliminated through the regular cellular renewal process. In simpler terms, lipofuscin is commonly known as the ‘ageing pigment’ and is linked to the gradual buildup of cellular waste.3

To address the buildup of cellular waste, it is essential to comprehend the mechanisms

involved in cellular recycling, like autophagy. This cellular self-cleaning process is induced during nutrient deprivation, orchestrated by the dissociation of the mTORC1 protein complex. This crucial step triggers partial dephosphorylation, initiating the autophagic mechanism. Notably, mTOR, a key component in autophagy regulation, ensures homeostasis, responding to the cell's physiological conditions and environmental stress. Reducing mTOR levels is essential for autophagy induction, playing a pivotal role in phagophore and autophagosome biogenesis. 4

The widely used marker LC3 identifies autophagosome formation, while various autophagy-related proteins (ATGs) contribute to membrane formation. The Parkin protein stands out for monitoring and selecting damaged mitochondria, facilitating their autophagic degradation. 4

While autophagy is crucial, its sole action isn’t sufficient to prevent lipofuscin formation. The proteasome system complements autophagy, but lipofuscin accumulation inhibits proteasome activity. Mitigating ‘cellular waste’ requires the synergy of autophagy and proteasome systems, with autophagy proving more

efficient in removing oxidised proteins in aged cells.5

In the pursuit of combating age spots, Chemyunion introduces Iselight®, a groundbreaking active ingredient born from meticulous research and ingredient screening. This solution targets the core factors contributing to age spot formation by enhancing the homeostasis of the cellular detoxification system. Iselight operates through the activation of autophagy and proteasome activity, effectively reducing different types of skin blemishes. The synergy between the resurrection plant and green coffee extracts forms the basis of Iselight, blending the antioxidant power of green coffee with the regenerative vitality of the resurrection plant.

DETOX EFFICACY

This test aimed to assess the detoxifying effect of the resurrection plant and green coffee active in lipofuscin reduction, using an in vitro model. The evaluation was carried out on human dermal fibroblasts treated with the active ingredient at 0.016% and incubated for 24 hours for subsequent irradiation with three doses of UVA per day, totaling 7J/cm² (see figure 1). After this period, the cells were analysed using an in vitro immunofluorescence technique known as the SenTraGor method.

The irradiated and active-treated group was compared to the control group (with no treatment) and the irradiated control group (with no treatment and irradiated with UVA 7J/cm² ). The active at 0.016% was able to eliminate lipofuscin generated by exposure

to UVA radiation, matching the control group without irradiation stress.

SKIN

BRIGHTENING AND PRO-AGEING EFFECT

The brightening effect on age spots and general pigmentation, and improvements in skin texture and elasticity (anisotropy) were evaluated in this test. Volunteers applied a product containing Iselight for 56 days, with intermediate measurements taken during the treatment period.

Did you know?

IMCD was recently appointed the distributor of Chemyunion’s ingredients and formulation technologies in South Africa.

as exfoliating, Botox, and peels, adhering to use conditions of tested treatments, maintaining hygiene and makeup habits, and abstaining from makeup in the experimental area during control days at the research centre.

whereas the placebo exhibited an increase in skin homogeneity solely after 28 days, with no discernible effects at day 56. These findings highlight the efficacy of the resurrection plant and green coffee active ingredient in promoting skin brightness and pro-ageing effects.

The trial took place in a clinical, randomised, single-blind, placebocontrolled setting. It involved two groups of female volunteers (68 in total), who received either a placebo cream (34 volunteers) or a cream formulation containing resurrection plant and green coffee active at 2% (34 volunteers). Participants applied the formulations topically to their facial skin, hands, and forearms twice a day (morning and evening). In addition, all volunteers applied a sunscreen formulation every morning. All assessments were conducted by a dermatologist.

Volunteers underwent a 56-day topical treatment with either placebo formulation or Iselight 2% formulation on facial, hands, and forearm areas. Volunteer obligations included refraining from applying other similar treatments, avoiding aesthetic treatments such

In this clinical trial, the clinical effects of the topical application of the placebo and 2% active formulations were assessed after 28 and 56 days. Clinical, skin macroscopic, and biomechanical parameters were quantified. Evaluations were conducted by a technician and a dermatologist before any treatment (day 0), and at 28 days and 56 days post treatments. All measurements at day 0, 28, and 56 involved a 30-minute rest in a humidity- and temperaturecontrolled room.

ANALYSIS OF SPOTS ON BACK OF HANDS

This analysis involved taking photographs with a digital Canon camera EOS 60 D and using a Chroma Meter CR 400 (Konica Minolta Sensing Americas) to measure the lightening of spots and skin homogeneity. Notable improvements in various skin features on both the hands and face were observed after 28 and 56 days of consistent use.

The results shown in figure 2 reveal notable improvements in various skin features on the hands and face after 28 and 56 days of consistent use. The active ingredient at 2% demonstrated a substantial reduction of 25.9% and 30.8% in hand spot length after 28 and 56 days, respectively, while the placebo formulation yielded no discernible effects.

A time-dependent enhancement of 44.7% and 63.2% in hand skin homogeneity was observed at day 28 and day 56 (see figure 2), respectively, with the active ingredient,

ANALYSIS OF SPOTS ON FACE

Facial analysis involved acquiring three images (front, left and right sides) of volunteers using Visia CT equipment (Canfield Scientific). These images were standardised using a digital Canon camera for subsequent analysis of spot lightening through the FrameScan software (Teradyne). Skin evenness and spot lightening on the facial and hand areas were determined using the total surface of spots and the Haralick homogeneity index.

Clinical dermatological evaluations were conducted by a dermatologist on day 0, day 28, and day 56.

The active 2% formulation significantly increased facial skin homogeneity, improving by 44% and 21.5% at day 28 and day 56, respectively. In contrast, the placebo showed a 14.3% improvement in skin homogeneity after 28 days of treatment, with no effects observed at day 56. Facial images of volunteers also illustrated the overall improvement of skin features when compared to the placebo group. •

REFERENCES:

1. Choi W, Yin L, Smuda C, Batzer J, Hearing VJ, Kolbe L. Molecular and histological characterization of age spots. Experimental Dermatology. 2017;26(3):242-248. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.13203

2. PORTA EA. Pigments in Aging: An Overview. Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences. 2002;959(1):5765. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1749-6632.2002. tb02083.x

3. Bourne GH. Lipofuscin. Progress in Brain Research. Published online January 1, 1973:187-201. doi: https:// doi.org/10.1016/s0079-6123(08)60687-1

4. Kim H, Park SY, Moon S, Lee J, Kim S. Autophagy in Human Skin Fibroblasts: Impact of Age. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018;19(8):2254. doi: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19082254

5. Keller JN, Dimayuga E, Chen Q, Thorpe J, Gee J, Ding Q. Autophagy, proteasomes, lipofuscin, and oxidative stress in the aging brain. The International Journal of Biochemistry & Cell Biology. 2004;36(12):2376-2391. doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocel.2004.05.003

IMCD – www.imcdsa.co.za

Revolutionising skincare with ectoin

Ectoin is emerging as a promising addition to the arsenal of skincare actives, heralding a new era in cosmetic science.

Sourcing

This bioactive peptide has been the subject of research for over 30 years. In 1985, professor Galinski discovered that halophilic bacteria, thriving in extreme environments like the salt lakes of the Egyptian desert, produced a natural protective component (ectoin) in the outer layer of their cells. Also known as salt-tolerant bacteria extract, this component is an amino acid derivative with an extremolytes pressure protection factor.

Extremolytes, small stress-protection molecules, serve as a protective shield for the bacteria to help them adapt to extreme environments, protecting against dehydration, extreme temperatures, and environmental factors. Three decades later, ectoin is finding application in enzyme preparation, biomedicine, skincare products and more.

" 1% ectoin water solution increases skin water content and reduces transdermal water loss within seven hours"

Nowadays, the compound is obtained through advanced biotechnological processes, ensuring the extraction of a pure and potent ingredient in alignment with the growing demand for eco-friendly alternatives. The key lies in extracting ectoin from sustainably cultivated plants rich in bioactive compounds. Through an advanced and environmentally conscious manufacturing process, the selected plant materials undergo enzymatic hydrolysis, yielding a concentrated extract that serves as the foundation for ectoin. This extraction method guarantees the preservation of the plant's beneficial compounds and ensures the overall sustainability of the production process. Subsequent purification and refinement stages employ state-of-the-art technologies,

eliminating impurities and isolating ectoin in its purest form. The result is a potent, biocompatible peptide with exceptional skincare properties, setting it apart as a valuable addition to cosmetic formulations.

WHY IS ECTOIN SO BENEFICIAL?

Ectoin's appeal lies in its multifaceted benefits, which address many skincare concerns and are substantiated by recent clinical trials.

the ingredient’s role in supporting skin regeneration processes. Formulations enriched with ectoin accelerate healing, addressing scars, blemishes and other imperfections for a smoother and more even skin tone.

EFFICACY SUBSTANTIATION

With its highly polar molecular structure, ectoin exhibits strong water molecular complexation ability. It forms an ectoin water complex, wrapping around cells, enzymes, proteins and biomolecules to create a hydrating shell. This shield protects, nourishes and stabilises these elements, reducing skin moisture loss and safeguarding against external aggressors like UV radiation, pollutants, allergens and alternating environmental conditions.

Experimental results show that a 1% ectoin water solution increases skin water content and reduces transdermal water loss within seven hours, indicating excellent moisturising ability. In vitro studies on collagen regeneration reveal that ectoin promotes collagen secretion in fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner, suggesting its potential to repair skin damage and delay ageing.

Ectoin brings the following to skincare formulations:

• Anti-ageing properties – by promoting collagen synthesis and improving skin elasticity. Clinical trials reveal a noticeable reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making ectoin invaluable for formulations targeting age-related skin concerns.

• Moisture retention – It enhances skin hydration, preventing dehydration and promoting a supple and radiant complexion. Formulations incorporating Ectoin exhibit improved moisture retention, making it an ideal choice for combating dryness and maintaining optimal skin hydration levels.

• Antioxidant defence – Ectoin showcases potent antioxidant properties, safeguarding skin from the damaging effects of free radicals. By bolstering skin's natural defence mechanisms, it contributes to a more resilient and protected complexion.

• Skin regeneration – Clinical trials highlight

In vivo anti-ageing studies with 1% ectoin cream show a significant improvement in wrinkles and skin elasticity, reinforcing its anti-ageing effect. In vitro anti-allergy studies demonstrate that ectoin inhibits hyaluronidase, indicating anti-allergy effects. Additionally, in vitro anti-inflammatory studies show that it inhibits the release of inflammatory cytokines, suggesting ectoin’s potent anti-inflammatory effect.

Studies have also shown a good cell repair ability, which is the positive effect of soothing and removing redness and the ability to brighten skin tone.

ECTOIN IN SOUTH AFRICA

Locally, Multichem Sourcing is already importing this active ingredient and two prominent local players are currently developing skincare products soon be out on the market.

As the momentum behind ectoin continues to build, the industry finds itself on the cusp of a transformative era, where science and nature meet to create products that can exceed consumer expectations for effective and environmentally conscious skincare solutions. •

Multichem Sourcing –www.multichem-group.com

IClean beauty alternative to aggressive acids

Chempure introduces Vita Soft Peel from Quimivita. This revolutionary bio-fermented acid, and clean beauty alternative to salicylic and glycolic acids, is ideal for sensitive skin.

n a breakthrough for the cosmetics industry, a new bio-fermented ingredient, Vita Soft Peel, has been launched as a gentle yet effective alternative to traditional harsh acids like salicylic and glycolic acids. Designed specifically for sensitive skin, this innovative ingredient offers a versatile solution for skincare and hair care formulations aiming to achieve rejuvenation, anti-acne, anti-cellulite, and keratolytic effects.

“Vita Soft Peel harnesses the power of renewable bio-fermented technology”

Vita Soft Peel harnesses the power of renewable bio-fermented technology to provide a unique keratolytic activity that carefully reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum. This process not only aids in shedding skin’s outer layer but also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients, maximising their efficacy.

A MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SUPER STAR

The remarkable ingredient stands out for its multi-functional properties. It boasts significant anti-microbial and anti-ageing benefits, effectively inhibiting the enzymes responsible

for collagen degradation. Moreover, its prowess extends to combating acne and cellulite, making it a multifaceted asset in various beauty products.

What truly sets Vita Soft Peel apart is its compatibility with sensitive skin types. This broadens its appeal significantly, allowing formulators to cater to a wider audience who might otherwise shy away from chemical exfoliation products due to skin sensitivity issues.

Distributed in South Africa by Chempure, Vita Soft Peel is available to cosmetic

Keratolytics completely or partially dissolve the horny layer of the skin. They promote the penetration of other active ingredients by reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum. Did you know?

manufacturers seeking to innovate or expand their product lines with an ingredient that aligns with the efficacy without compromise demand of modern consumers. The ingredient is ideal for inclusion in a range of cosmetic products, from anti-ageing serums and acne treatments to hair care solutions and anticellulite creams. •

Chempure – chempure.co.za

A fountain of youth encapsulated

The beauty industry is always buzzing with trends and breakthroughs aimed at achieving flawless skin and radiant beauty. Phytoceramides have emerged as a powerful player in the beauty industry, promising to rejuvenate skin from within.

In the past, consumers focused solely on the appearance of their skin. Yet more consumers now understand the importance of maintaining skin’s moisture barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss caused by decreased natural ceramide levels during ageing.

But what exactly are phytoceramides, and do they live up to the hype?

Ceramides are not foreign or new. They are lipids naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin, known as the epidermis. Their plant-derived equivalents are phytoceramides, which are usually sourced from wheat, rice, sweet potatoes etc. They play a critical role in maintaining skin’s barrier function, locking in moisture, protecting against environmental aggressors, and contributing to skin cell cohesion, by aiding in skin’s repair and renewal process.

" Using skincare products with phytoceramides not only prevents dry skin and other skin conditions but also boosts overall skin health"

THE IMPORTANCE OF CERAMIDES

Maintaining healthy skin is essential for a youthful and radiant appearance. Ensuring skin’s moisture barrier is intact is one way to achieve this. Unfortunately, natural ceramide levels decrease as we age, leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and various skin conditions that exhibit a weakened barrier function.

To combat the decline in ceramides and support skin health, it's crucial to choose high-quality cosmetic-grade ceramides and incorporate them into a comprehensive skincare formulation.

SUSTAINABLE SOURCING

Croda’s acquisition of Solus Biotech reinforces the company’s commitment to being the most sustainable supplier of innovative ingredients. Solus Biotech has more than 30 years’ experience in biotechnology and fermentation and is a leading supplier of naturally derived powder ceramides.

The Sphingocare range ceramides are sourced using simplified bio-fermentation techniques to preserve their integrity, increase efficacy, retain stability, and minimise impurities, Vegan certified, Halal, COSMOS approved, and China (IECIC) listed, they fulfil the requirements of the European Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and its amendments, as they are not tested on animals. This is appealing to productconscious consumers looking for plant-based skincare solutions.

HIGH-QUALITY CERAMIDES

The Sphingocare range consists of DSPhytosphingosine, DS-Hydroceramide 50S, DS-Hydroceramide 50, and DS-CERAmix-V. All these options are well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, addressing a lot of skincare concerns from the market without sacrificing performance.

They are non-irritating and suitable for daily use at a very low inclusion level, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products such as moisturisers, serums, and creams.

They can be formulated to deliver ceramides directly to the skin with advanced encapsulation technology offering benefits such as barrier function reinforcement, hydration, improved skin elasticity, increased viscosity and stability, higher penetration efficiency for enhanced moisturisation, a hyaluronic acid production boost, and to promote skin ceramide bioproduction.

Using skincare products with phytoceramides not only prevents dry skin and other skin conditions but also boosts overall skin health. With more and more consumers now aware of the benefits of ceramides, these superhero ingredients are finally receiving the recognition they deserve. The significant increase in beauty products formulated with ceramides has led to a global trend in skincare.

For this trend to continue, the industry requires collaboration among stakeholders, including consumers, manufacturers, regulators, and advocacy groups, to promote the sustainability of phytoceramides within the skincare industry. •

Croda Beauty –www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb

A vision for sustainability with upcycled coffee ingredients

Guided by a commitment to sustainability, Kaffe Bueno pioneers eco-conscious beauty solutions by utilising coffee’s potential for anti-ageing and well-ageing skincare.

Kaffe Bueno upcycles coffee byproducts into active, functional and multifunctional ingredients for personal care, human nutrition, animal nutrition and agro chemicals. The supplier, which is represented in South Africa by Danlink, is speeding up the transition to natural solutions without compromising on quality or efficacy.

In this article, we explore five different upcycled coffee ingredients produced by Kaffe Bueno for skincare and hair care applications.

ARGAN ALTERNATIVE

KAFFOIL® (INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Oil) revolutionises skincare with its lipophilic extract from upcycled coffee grounds.

Rich in polyphenols, tocopherols and essential fatty acids, KAFFOIL® serves as a sustainable alternative to argan oil. From moisturising skin creams to hair care serums, this versatile ingredient enhances skin barrier function, boosts antioxidant activity, and promotes hair shine, while preventing and repairing split ends.

PRO-AGEING ACTIVE BIOPOLYMER

KAFFAGE® (INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Extract/ Coffea Arabica Seed Extract (and) Glycerin) is an innovative amphiphilic biopolymer extract derived from defatted coffee by-products. As a multifunctional active ingredient, KAFFAGE® delivers potent antioxidant activity and UV protection, while mimicking various skin tones.

Did you know?

Kaffe Bueno’s portfolio, consisting of active and functional ingredients, serves as one-to-one replacements for unsustainable natural ingredients like argan oil or palm oil derivatives, as well as petrochemicals and synthetics.

This microbiome-friendly extract offers pro-ageing benefits, preventing glycation and enhancing the skin’s natural defenses against environmental stressors.

NATURAL MICROBEAD ALTERNATIVE

KAFFIBRE® (INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Powder) co-efficiently removes dead skin cells, reduces the appearance of cellulite, and imparts a brown colourant to formulations.

Biodegradable and biocompatible, this ecofriendly natural exfoliant is ideal for scrubs, soaps, and facial exfoliating creams.

HAIR AND SCALP CARE ACTIVE

KAFFAIR® (INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Extract/ Coffea Arabica Seed Extract (and) Glycerin) revolutionises scalp and hair care, fortifying cuticles and removing pollutants.

With its antioxidant-rich formula, KAFFAIR® defends against hair loss and damage, while imparting emulsifying and thickening in formulations.

BIOBASED SURFACTANT

KLEANSTANT® (INCI: Potassium Coffeeate) is an eco-friendly biobased surfactant derived from coffee oil. Free from sulfates and petroleum, this anionic surfactant offers gentle cleansing, foaming, and emulsifying properties, while preserving skin's natural microbiome.

Suitable for facial cleansers, body washes, and soaps, KLEANSTANT® delivers a moisturising effect, leaving skin feeling clean and refreshed.

CREATING A GREENER INDUSTRY

Kaffe Bueno’s commitment to sustainability and innovation shines through its transformative vision for well-ageing

skincare. With the supplier’s pioneering use of upcycled coffee by-products, Kaffe Bueno not only offers effective skincare solutions but also contributes to a cleaner, greener beauty industry. •

Upcycled Multi-Functional Active Biopolymer KAFFAGE®

Daily protection of collagen and elastin

Reduces crows feet, fine lines and hyperpigmentation

AVG increases 16% hydration after 28 days

Partial replacement of iron oxides

Applications:

• BB creams/CC creams

• Foundations

• Concealers

• Tinted Moisturisers

• Sunscreens

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Puregas leads the way with sustainable solar initiative

In the heart of Alberton, Gauteng, a green project is taking shape at Puregas. The leading supplier of purified and blended hydrocarbon gas propellants and foam blowing products is going off the grid over the next few years with solar.

Solar power generation is a priority for Puregas as the company is committed to minimising its impact on the environment. Puregas also aims to ensure business continuity while reducing the effects of loadshedding and unplanned outages on its customers.

“It all began with a desire to mitigate the inconvenience and interruption caused by loadshedding on our operations and, more importantly, our customers’ operations,” explains Jaco Wiese, director of sales & operations at Puregas. “With the solar project, we are aiming to reduce our environmental footprint while ensuring business continuity.”

This multi-million rand project marks another milestone in the company’s journey to reduce its carbon footprint and reach its ESG goals.

A

LONG-TERM

SOLUTION

Sustainable carbon-free energy solutions such as solar are crucial to slowing the

Did you know?

One of Puregas’ key goals is to prevent harm to people and damage to the environment. To reach this goal, the company has established guiding principles for its business regarding optimum environmental protection.

"Puregas remains steadfast in its commitment to sustainability, with solar energy serving as a cornerstone of its environmental efforts"

pace of climate change and preventing further damage to the environment.

Installing solar panels greatly reduces operational costs for a business and its dependence on the power grid. This energy independence also protects against rising electricity costs and volatile fuel prices.

With analysts forecasting continued increases in electricity rates, solar remains a cost-effective solution and long-term investment in the future.

Recognising these benefits, Puregas embarked on the solar project at the beginning of 2024. Central to Puregas’ approach was the careful selection of suppliers, such as Trina Solar and Energy Gurus, which are renowned for their commitment to environmental stewardship and competitive, reliable offerings.

“Engaging with suppliers that share our values was crucial,” emphasises Jaco, “which is why we opted to embark on this project with Trina Solar, which supplied the panels, and Energy Gurus, as the main supplier of the integrated technical solution.”

DRIVING POSITIVE CHANGE

The scale and scope of Puregas’ solar project are impressive, with three main components driving its success:

1. Generation

2. Conversion

3. Storage.

“With our solar panels capable of generating 1MW of power per day, which is equivalent to the consumption of approximately 35 average households,

we’re making substantial strides towards energy independence,” notes Jaco.

Philip Cloete, managing director of Puregas, highlights the positive impact of this project on the company’s operations and sustainability goals.

“From ensuring business continuity to significantly reducing our greenhouse gas emissions, switching to solar energy aligns perfectly with our ESG objectives,” he states.

The phased approach of the project also underscores Puregas’ commitment to longterm sustainability.

“Solar energy will become our primary source of electricity on site, with grid backup and diesel generators serving as secondary and tertiary options, respectively,” explains Philip, outlining the company’s future energy strategy.

Looking ahead, Puregas remains steadfast in its commitment to sustainability, with solar energy serving as a cornerstone of its environmental efforts. As an early adopter of renewable energy solutions in the aerosol industry, Puregas’ solar project will continue to evolve to benefit its customers, the company’s internal operations and the environment.

This development highlights that Puregas remains fully invested in the South African aerosol industry and is optimistic about the future. •

Puregas – puregas.co.za

Balancing performance, aesthetics and sustainability in sunscreens

Formulators need to create sunscreens that address market needs while providing strong UV protection performance, formulation aesthetics and sustainability features. In this article, the Evonik Personal Care team discusses how the formulator can meet all these expectations.

The global sun care market is thriving with significant potential for growth. According to market research, sun care is expected to increase at compound annual growth rate of 5.6% between 2022 and 2027. This progress is being driven by an increasing awareness of the harmful effects of UV rays on skin and the need for effective and pleasant sun protection.

"People want products that offer more than just UV protection"

Consumers are also increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of sunscreens and are demanding natural and sustainable options. People want products that offer more than just UV protection, with anti-ageing or other skincare benefits now paramount.

THE EMULSIFIER

When developing a modern sun care product, the first step is to find an optimal emulsifier. The most important selection criterion is certainly the required stability, which is quite challenging for sun care products with high UV filter content. At the same time, it would be helpful if the emulsifier provides more than just stability.

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate) is a good option for an emulsifier. It is a unique, versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifier based on fully renewable sources for challenging

This oil-in-water sunscreen is formulated with ingredients that respect the ocean and environment. Its quick absorption rate makes it even more appealing to consumers.

fluid emulsions such as sunscreen sprays. An outstanding feature of this emulsifier is that it supports time and energy saving in terms of hot/cold processing depending on the formulation composition. This is another plus

point when considering the price sensitivity of today’s consumers.

Applying sunscreen is often associated with a heavy, uncomfortable feel on the skin – something consumers want to avoid.

As shown in Evonik’s Sensory Kaleidoscope, TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB provides a light skin feel coupled with moisturising benefits.

THE SENSORY EXPERIENCE

A formulator has several options to achieve the pleasant sensory experience that encourages consumers to apply sunscreen. As mentioned above, the emulsifier is one decisive factor. Choosing the right emollient is also critical. Especially for sun care products, it is important to have an emollient that provides a light skin feel.

dermofeel® sensolv MB (INCI: Isoamyl Laurate) is a high spreading emollient with a pleasant, non-greasy after feel. It also dissolves UV filters effectively. This emollient is fully based on renewable resources and produced using a unique, eco-efficient process that runs entirely on renewable energy. The result is an improved impact on global warming with a 100% lower CO ₂ footprint for the synthesis step compared to conventional chemical production.

In addition to emollients and emulsifiers, sensory additives help to achieve the right skin feel in a formulation. TEGO® Feel C 10

(INCI: Cellulose), a 100 % natural cellulose fibre sourced from sustainable European forestry, is a perfect alternative to microplastics in leave-on applications. It improves absorption and reduces oiliness on skin.

You can also achieve additional sensorial benefits with TEGO® Filmstar One MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Sebacate Crosspolymer), a multiple award-winning natural film former. This ingredient is fully based on renewable resources and is readily biodegradable, making it an excellent option for environmentally conscious consumers. It provides water resistance in sunscreens and offers sensorial benefits over standard fossil and non-biodegradable film formers.

ADDITIONAL BENEFITS

Sun care innovation can offer beauty benefits when using active ingredients that are more commonly associated with skincare (like antiageing properties), as well as on-trend skin health benefits (such as barrier protection).

SPHINOX® Defenda (INCI: Hydroxybutyroyl Phytosphingosine) is a unique derivative of the naturally occurring phytosphingosine, offering various skin defence and protection

benefits. In vitro studies on normal human epidermal keratinocytes have shown that it protects the skin from UV-induced DNA damage, while fighting environmental aggression, accelerating skin regeneration. It also re-balances skin tone after summer stress, as demonstrated in an in vivo study on sun-stressed skin.

Have we inspired you, or helped you realise that developing a sunscreen is easy with the selection of Evonik ingredients presented in this article? Connect with Evonik’s local personal care team for more information. •

Did you know?

TEGO® Filmstar One MB has won four awards. These include two bronze Innovation Zone Best Ingredient awards – one at in-cosmetics Global 2023 and the other at in-cosmetics Latin America 2023 – a silver Brazilian ABIHPEC Innovation Award in 2023, and a sliver Kenvue Trusted Science Award at in-cosmetics Global 2024.

Evonik South Africa –jacques.strydom@evonik.com

EMPOWER UV PROTECTION WITH A NATURAL SHIELD

with TEGO® FILMSTAR ONE MB

TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB is a fully bioderived and biodegradable film former. It can support various cosmetic formulations, which need water resistance functionality. Meanwhile, it also provides superior sensorial benefits and broad formulation compatibility. TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB offers similar performance as fossil and non-biodegradable film formers, supporting you to achieve your sustainability goals.

BENEFITS AT A GLANCE

• Fully bioderived and biodegradable film former

• Supports water resistance

• Provides sensorial benefits

• Excellent compatibility in a wide range of formulation types

• Good alternative for fossil and non-biodegradable film formers to achieve sustainable formulation

New pharma repacking and blending hub unveiled

In the pharmaceutical industry, trust and expertise are paramount. As a reliable partner to pharma manufacturers, Brenntag South Africa operates a repacking and blending facility dedicated to the industry’s R&D and product development needs. By Abby

Established in 2022 with a focus on repacking and blending high-quality flavours for the food and sports nutrition markets, Brenntag South Africa’s value-adding services in this area have expanded to pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and personal care ingredients.

The facility is fully HVAC controlled and was recently audited by the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) for its GWP accreditation. It also holds an ISO 9001 accreditation for quality management, ISO 14001 for environmental management, ISO 45001 for occupational health and safety management, and FSSC 22000 for the storage, repacking and distribution of flavours. A GMP audit is pending for the facility; once this certification is approved Brenntag South Africa will expand its offering to contract powder blending.

"

Repacking is a valueadded service that is synonymous with Brenntag"

The repacking and blending facility is highly process focused to ensure regulatory compliance. Each repacking cubicle is HVAC controlled and fully equipped to ensure the safety of workers and the surrounding environment while guaranteeing the quality of the ingredients being repacked. Workers also wear full PPE to protect them during the repacking process.

The blending facility is adjacent to the repacking cubicles. This area is undergoing an upgrade to be more automated. A new conveyor system is being installed to increase HVAC control and limit human interaction with the products.

A LEADER IN REPACKING EXCELLENCE

Brenntag South Africa’s modern fully HVAC controlled repacking and blending facility is located at its head office in the Pomona business district in Johannesburg. The team at this site is able to cater to all customers’

demands regarding repacking, ranging from drums to polycans.

Repacking is a value-added service that is synonymous with Brenntag, catering to the exact demands of the personal care, nutraceutical and pharma industries in Southern Africa. All repackaging is performed and supported by dedicated quality and regulatory teams.

The gap in the market for repacking and blending continues to grow with increasing stringency around minimum order requirements, which are often set at 200kg as an industry standard. MOQs are becoming a barrier to trade for several manufacturers in terms of R&D and new product development. In addition to meeting its customers’ new product development needs, Brenntag South Africa has increased its agility to take samples to market much faster than competitors.

TAILORED SOLUTIONS FOR VARIOUS MARKETS

Brenntag South Africa is committed to excellence and efficiency in distributing and supplying ingredients to the pharma, nutraceutical and personal care industries. In addition to packing and blending, the company offers trustworthy regulatory support, helping pharmaceutical producers navigate stringent documentation and regulatory compliance requirements.

Fully traceable chemicals for regulated synthesis are an essential aspect of the company’s pharma business. In line with the global business, Brenntag South Africa follows standardised protocols, quality

control measures and safety guidelines to maintain product efficacy, purity and safety of all its products.

With these and many more value-added services, Brenntag South Africa is dedicated to doing more for the markets it serves. •

BENEFIT FROM BRENNTAG’S VALUE-ADDED SERVICES AND SOLUTIONS

• supply chain and warehousing capabilities custom-blending facility packaging and refilling

• customised solutions

• analytical services

• quality assurance and regulatory expertise market-intelligence data

• new formulations

• R&D around finished dosage forms

• GDP solutions in the region

Brenntag South Africa –www.brenntag.com/en-za

Quality by the milligram

Pharma manufacturing is one of the most challenging production environments. It is highly regulated with the industry governed by stringent regulations and each process part of a validated production system. In this article, we explore smart solutions from VEGA for pharma applications.

Accurate and reliable process measurement instrumentation is vital. The safety and quality standards of pharma products are exceptionally high. The production of medicine involves a series of processing steps, which must take place in a potentially volatile environment or comply with strict production guidelines and environmental regulations. This is because there is no margin for error in pharmaceutical production.

Parameters such as level and pressure are crucial, particularly in storage tanks and reactors. In the encapsulation process, reliable level measurement ensures a continuous supply of raw capsules and active ingredient pellets to the filling machine. Overfill protection is provided by a level detection system in collecting vessels, underscoring the industry’s commitment to safety and precision throughout the production chain. For that reason, numerous sensors are

required to monitor production. In the storage tanks and reactors, it is mainly parameters such as level and pressure that are of interest.

In the encapsulation process, the filling machine stores empty raw capsules and active ingredient pellets above it. Reliable level measurement is crucial to ensure a continuous supply to the process. The capsules are loosely stuck together and can be separated easily by a vacuum, after which the pellets are filled into their lower part. Following the filling, the capsules are transported to collecting vessels through a hose system. In these

" There is no margin for error in pharmaceutical production"

containers, a level detection system serves as an overfill protection.

A TRUSTED OPTION WORLDWIDE

Several pharmaceutical manufacturers across the globe have opted for VEGA sensors in their production facilities. One such manufacturer reported using mainly VEGAPULS non-contact radar sensors and VEGAFLEX guided wave radar sensors on their raw material and wastewater tanks. Since the introduction of the VEGAPULS 6X, various manufacturers have started using it in their reactors.

The VEGAPULS 42 compact radar sensor is versatile for continuous level measurement in both the active substance reservoir and capsule reservoirs. It's specifically designed for non-contact level measurement of liquids and bulk solids in straightforward to moderate applications. With the optional universal connection for hygienic adapters, installation effort is reduced, and inventory management is streamlined, meeting the strict requirements of hygienic processes in the pharma industry. Equipped with IO-Link, it provides continuous digital data transmission. This cost-effective solution ensures uninterrupted capsule filling thanks to its reliable measurement capabilities. Its userfriendly design allows for automatic filling through continuous monitoring of storage containers.

RELIABLE DETECTION OF LIMIT LEVELS

The VEGAPOINT 31 is a cost-effective limit switch designed for light bulk solids applications. It features a capacitive point level sensor, making

it ideal for monitoring point levels in collecting containers for filled capsules.

With its straightforward operation and optical switching display, it offers reliable detection of limit levels regardless of the medium present. Its compact design is suited for tight spaces, and the optional universal connection for hygiene adapters reduces installation effort and inventory needs, meeting the hygienic process requirements of the pharmaceutical industry. It can be used without adjustment and offers continuous digital data transmission via IO-Link.

CONTROLLING AND MONITORING

Pressure transmitters have diverse applications within multi-product facilities, including feed lines for transporting finished products to storage tanks. The VEGABAR 82 serves the dual purpose of controlling production processes and monitoring nitrogen neutralisation.

In processing areas with highly aggressive substances, the VEGABAR 82, featuring a ceramic diaphragm, is paired with PVDF process fittings and FFKM seals. It is capable of measuring pressures ranging from vacuum to 15 bar overpressures. For main storage tanks, typically 8m to 15m in height and 2m to 3m in diameter, various VEGA-level sensors can be installed to monitor and control a range of products, including raw materials, solvents and acids.

EXPERTISE TO ADDRESS

INDUSTRY DEMANDS

Pharma manufacturing processes face several challenges, including high temperatures, condensation, and vapours arising from chemically aggressive substances. Radar antennae can be prone to dirt deposits and crystallisation while obtaining precise level measurements can be complicated by obstacles such as process vessels and reactors.

The size, shape, and installation environment of tanks, as well as mechanical factors, often pose difficulties for level sensors. Furthermore, surfaces within reactors and mixers are frequently in motion

and can be turbulent, adding to the complexity. Despite these challenges, pharma manufacturers work with VEGA to consistently achieve reliable and precise measured values. Safety and quality are non-negotiable in pharma production, where products must meet exceptionally high standards. With no margin for error, manufacturers bear a heavy responsibility.

VEGA understands the complexities of pharmaceutical manufacturing, from the precise mixing of ingredients to the final encapsulation. Each step plays a critical role in ensuring medication quality. VEGA's reliable instrumentation and sensors provide manufacturers with the accurate measurements needed to optimise every stage of the process. This translates to greater consistency and higher quality medication for patients. •

Did you know?

New leadership embraces change

The AMA has appointed a new executive director who will lead the organisation into the future. Abby Vorster spoke to Chris Waldron about his vision to make a meaningful difference in this role.

After Nick Tselentis passed away in August 2023, the Aerosol Manufacturers Association of South Africa (AMA) began the search for a new executive director. An industry stalwart with over 30 years of experience and having previously served on the association’s executive committee and as chairman of the AMA, Chris was the perfect candidate for this role. He knows the industry intimately and is passionate about the aerosol can as a preferred packaging option.

“The aerosol can is an excellent packaging medium. It is effective at dispensing 100% of the product, is convenient and robust. It will also keep a product fresh for many years when compared to other types of packaging,” he comments, adding that these benefits far outweigh the cost of the aerosol tin can.

Goods Council of South Africa. This is quite important as many manufacturers and suppliers see the AMA as the voice of the industry,” he says.

Regulatory hurdles remain a primary concern for the aerosol industry. Chris stresses the importance of establishing the AMA as a relevant authority and fostering consultative relationships with government entities to shape regulations constructively rather than reactively.

ENHANCED COMMUNICATION

A UNIFIED APPROACH

Chris aims to bring a fresh perspective and innovative approach to the association's framework to foster collaboration, address regulatory challenges, and enhance the relevance of the South African aerosol industry. Although he is currently working through some administrative issues, he has notable long-term goals for the AMA.

“The idea is to focus on collaboration, which is pivotal when advocating with government on the industry’s behalf. It will take a unified approach to lobby effectively with government bodies and other associations like the Consumer

Going forward Chris will engage members actively, ensuring their needs are met. He will also actively promote the benefits of AMA membership across the board.

“It’s important to ask members what the AMA can do for them,” he comments.

“This will help us address their needs more effectively.”

To facilitate communication, the reinstatement of the AMA newsletter is underway, promising valuable insights and updates for stakeholders. Readers interested in receiving this newsletter must please contact Chris to be added to the mailing list.

“I also plan to invigorate industry engagement through initiatives like the informative breakfast events, welcoming participation from all levels of the industry to nurture talent and drive progression.”

Highlighting the upcoming AGM scheduled for 27 June at the Woodmead Country Club in Johannesburg, Chris says: “This event is an important one on the industry’s calendar from a networking

"Chris is perfectly positioned to lead the AMA into a new era of prosperity and prominence"

and collaboration perspective. For those who cannot join us in person, an online participation option is available.”

DRIVING GROWTH AND INNOVATION

There is a great need for the AMA to assert its relevance within and beyond the industry.

Commenting on this, Chris notes that “by continuing to offer our sought-after training programmes and positioning the association as a go-to resource for industry-related matters, we aim to enhance the association’s awareness and influence, ensuring the AMA's voice is heard in regulatory discussions and where industry advocacy efforts are concerned”.

Consumer education on aerosol can recycling remains a priority for the AMA.

“We will continue to advocate for outreach programmes that highlight the environmental benefits of recycling and the inherent advantages of aerosol packaging.”

Chris’ vision for the AMA revolves around fostering collaboration, enhancing industry relevance, and advocating for regulatory reform to drive growth and innovation among all industry stakeholders. With his wealth of experience and dedication, Chris is perfectly positioned to lead the AMA into a new era of prosperity and prominence. •

Balancing sustainability in packaging production

Virgin and recycled fibres both have a place in paper, packaging and print. The best approach is to find the right balance when using these fibres to make a significant contribution to a circular economy.

The sustainability of packaging production is a critical and ongoing consideration by consumers, retailers and brand owners. While the pursuit of environmental friendliness – or the appearance of it – drives the push towards more recycled fibres, virgin or new fibres are still essential in the manufacturing of high-quality, durable and sustainable paper products.

Determining a proper mix of virgin and recycled fibres is a nuanced process. While some argue for exclusively recycled content to ‘save trees’, the demand for wood fibre is also a driving force in maintaining healthy forest ecosystems.

Jane Molony, executive director of the Paper Manufacturers Association of South Africa (PAMSA) explains that both virgin and recycled fibres bring unique strengths to the table. “The fibre from recycled paper contributes to the circular economy, reducing the need for fresh raw materials, in our case virgin fibre.”

But this should not be confused with ‘saving trees’.

THE CYCLE OF PAPER

Each time paper is recycled, the fibres get shorter and weaker, eventually degrading to the point where they are unable to bond into new paper. This is why virgin fibres from sustainable sources offer essential qualities like strength, durability and brightness, and are continually introduced into the system.

“In South Africa, virgin fibre for pulp, paper and packaging is sourced from sustainably farmed trees grown in plantations,” she explains, adding that only 10% of the total planted area is harvested each year and replanted within 12 months, making this fibre a renewable resource.

“We also have forest certification programmes such as the Sustainable African Forest Assurance Scheme, the Forest Stewardship Council and the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, which keep forest owners accountable,” Molony notes. Paper is also a reliably recycled material. Over the past decade, the South African paper industry has recovered an average 66% (around 1.1 million tonnes) of all recoverable paper used in our country on an annual basis. This includes newspapers and magazines, as well as corrugated and paperboard packaging, office papers and mixed waste paper. Recoverable paper excludes the likes of tissue products which is unsuitable or not possible to recover, as well as packaging that is used for export of goods.

This also means that products do not have to contain 100% recycled content to be considered ‘sustainable’.

FIBRE AND FUNCTIONALITY

Both virgin and recycled paper offer alternatives to electronic forms of communication, which have their own environmental impact, such as e-waste and energy use. A balanced approach acknowledges the need for sustainable forest management alongside recycling efforts.

Choosing whether to use recycled or virgin paper typically comes down to the type of use. The wrong mix of recycled and virgin fibres will affect paper’s ability to run smoothly through a press or printer and will take up ink and other coatings. Ink saturation, registration and

Did you know?

South African paper manufacturers do not make recycled printing paper locally, which means companies insisting on recycled paper for their documents will need to import it. This comes with a carbon footprint.

brightness may all be affected, creating a different type of end product depending upon the intended use.

Breaking and separating fibres during recycling affects the paper’s durability and surface area, and recycled paper products can only be ‘downcycled’, which means a corrugated box cannot be made into bright white paper, but higher quality paper can be made into recycled packaging grades.

INCREASING CONSUMER AWARENESS

Educating consumers about the benefits of a balanced mix of virgin and recycled fibres and the role the paper industry plays in environmental stewardship is essential.

Understanding that responsible paper production involves a thoughtful combination of these fibres can empower consumers to make environmentally conscious choices that truly support sustainable practices within the industry.

The union of virgin and recycled fibres in paper and paper-based packaging production is not just a compromise; it’s a strategic alliance embodying the principles of sustainability, quality, and versatility. By striking the right balance, the paper industry can contribute significantly to a circular economy while meeting the diverse needs of consumers and businesses alike. •

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