INDONESIA

Corals are actually animals, not plants! They may seem like a plant because they don’t have any significant movement, but corals really are animals who are related to jellyfish.

As Indonesia reopens its borders to international tourists, Scuba Diver Australia and New Zealand Editor Adrian Stacey showcases what people have been missing out on these past two years

Photographs by Adrian Stacey

Hosting over 25% of the world’s fish species, as well as over 72% of the worldwide coral species, Indonesia is often cited as the world’s epicenter of biodiversity with the greatest marine life variety ever recorded on Earth.

Indonesia is one of the top dive destinations in the world,

The destinations mentioned in this article represent some of the best-known dive locations around this vast country, plus some lesser-known gems. This is by no means an exhaustive list of

Indonesian diving, but it does demonstrate the diversity and scope for adventure on offer. Before we look at specific dive areas, I think it is important to understand the geography of the country and what makes the diving so good.

Indonesia is vast - it stretches from the bottom tip of Thailand to the northern end of Queensland in Australia. This huge archipelago consists of over 17,000 islands and is the 14th largest country by landmass. With a population of over 270 million, Indonesia has a rich and interesting history and boasts incredible biodiversity from rainforest to savanna and, of course, coral reefs. Many of the country’s birds and mammals are endemic, including the impressive Komodo dragon. Part of the Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, Indonesia is home to more volcanoes than any other country in the world and has been blessed with some spectacular scenery. This stunning scenery also extends down under the water. Part of the fabled Coral Triangle, the reefs of Indonesia are spectacular, and the variety of marine life is staggering. Much of the bustling reef’s success is due to the geography of the country and the Indonesian throughflow (ITF).

The ITF, one of the most-significant movements of water on the planet, is an ocean current that flows from the Pacific to the Indian Ocean. Vast amounts of water are flushed through the maze of islands at the eastern end of the country. These islands act like a giant sieve, filtering the nutrient-rich water from the Pacific. Traveling around the Indonesian archipelago is not always very quick or easy. For instance, Komodo and Raja Ampat look relatively close, however, getting from one to the other involves two flights with a long stopover in either Jakarta or Makassar. If you are looking at diving multiple locations, it is wise to map out a route well in advance. An excellent website to help plan a trip is Rome to Rio, or speak with a good specialist dive travel agent. With Indonesia’s wealth of diving, it isn’t easy to know where to start. As Bali is perhaps the most well-known location in Indonesia and was the first to reopen, it makes sense to begin with this bustling tropical island.

Bali is perhaps better known as a party destination, especially among Australians. Still, this stunning island also has some great dive sites with outstanding big animal encounters and a world-class wreck. To the south of Bali are the Nusa Penida islands. This area is famous for manta rays and the elusive mola mola, and it is also well known for strong currents along the east coast in Amed, Padang Bai, Candidasa and Tulamben, which is home to the Liberty shipwreck. The Liberty has mainly collapsed now, but what is left is covered in coral and home to all manner of little critters, including the tiny pygmy seahorse. Amed is also great for muck diving, and the occasional mola mola has been known to cruise past. To the northwest coast of Bali, the quieter end of the island, is Menjangan Island, Permurtaran, Lovina and Gilimanuk. This area offers excellent wall diving, with great hard and soft coral coverage.

This UNESCO-listed region is simply stunning - the savanna-like landscape is patrolled by the largest living lizard on Earth, the Komodo dragon. Underwater the landscape, topography and animal encounters are even more spectacular. The Komodo National Park is renowned for its ripping currents and consists of three main areas, the North, the middle and the South. The North can be reached by day boats from the small town of Labuan Bajo on Flores. To get to the park’s central and southern reaches, you need to be on a liveaboard. In the North, famous dive sites like Castle Rock and Crystal Rock attract vast schools of fish, attracting predators of every description. The Cauldron, also known as the Shotgun, and Batu Balong, are two other dives not to be missed. Manta Alley is one of the best places to dive with mantas, while the Tatawa and Siaba islands offer endless coral gardens. In the middle section of the park, there are some stunning

Bali actually has five different wrecks around its island shores! The world-famous USAT Liberty wreck is rated as one of the best wreck dives in the world and can be visited by almost anyone from beginners to avid scuba divers.

dives around the island of Padar. The spectacular walls of Pilaarsten and the coral-covered pinnacles of the Three Sisters are particularly good. World’s End is another great dive along coral-encrusted walls. Other highlights include the dive sites around the southern tip of Rinca - this area is fantastic for macro life. The pick of the dive sites here has to be Cannibal Rock. There are also several dive sites on the West Coast of Komodo.

Alor is not quite as well-known as some other Indonesian dive destinations, but this is an unspoilt gem. Prone to strong currents, the area boasts untouched coral gardens and superb macro life, including the photographer’s favourite, nudibranchs and rhinopia. The strong currents also attract some pelagic species like thresher sharks and mola mola.

Although the Banda Islands themselves do have a couple of dive shops and the diving around these remote islands is very good, this is most definitely liveaboard territory. A dive site called Nil Desperandum is hundreds of miles from the closest land, and in the right season, huge schools of hammerheads can be found around this stunning hard coral reef. Other highlights include Manuk and Gunung Api, both of these islands are famous for sea snakes.

Ambon lies at the northern edge of the Banda Sea and is another of Indonesia’s extraordinary muck diving sites, home to rhinopia, wonderpus, seahorses, nudibranchs and the very photogenic psychedelic frogfish. Ambon is not just about critters, though, and besides excellent muck diving, there are beautiful soft corals and fantastic wall dives with overhangs, caves and caverns, plus plenty of fish.

Raja Ampat is famous for having the greatest marine biodiversity on the planet. The reefs here are

Vivid colours of soft corals adorn the reefs

Vibrant shoals of fish inhabit the reefs

Barrel sponges on the reef

Komodo dragon

Hard corals provide a hiding place for smaller fish

Indonesia is equally stunning above water

LEFT BOTTOM Porcelain crab

With over 17,508 islands and situated in the heart of the coral triangle, Indonesia is a diver’s paradise. From tiny pygmy seahorses and macro critters to magnificent manta rays and the mighty mola mola, there’s plenty to see.

Striking array of soft coral growth

Soft corals await the diver as they venture through an archway

Turtle on the reef stunning, and the amount of marine life is staggering. Raja Ampat covers a vast area encompassing over 1,500 islands. Divers can choose to dive from a liveaboard or base themselves on land to explore a particular region. There are three main areas in Raja Ampat. The northern part includes island-like Wayag, renowned for its stunning topside scenery. Keawe also boasts spectacular dive sites like Black Rock, with its amazing soft coral gardens and Eagle Rock, which houses a manta cleaning station. The central zone includes the Dampier Straight and has some of the region’s most well-known dive sites. Manta Sandy, Cape Kri, Blue Magic and Melissa’s Garden, to name but a few. The diversity of marine life here is second to none. Huge schools of fish can be found at Cape Kri, mantas galore at Manta Sandy and spectacular hard coral gardens at Melissa’s Garden. To the south of the marine park is Misool. This region is famous for its coral coverage, both hard and soft corals vie for space, and it seems like every inch of rock is covered in multiple layers of coral growth. Plus, plenty of schooling fish, reef fish and sharks of varying descriptions.

Cenderawasih Bay on the northern coast of West Papua is off the beaten track and as yet not as famous as its neighbours, Raja Ampat. Still, this destination is gaining a reputation for fantastic diving. This is primarily due to the whalesharks that congregate around the fishing platforms. This considerable bay also has numerous World War Two wrecks, incredible corals and plenty of macro life.

Located on the southern coast of West Papua, this is another up-and-coming destination that is well off the beaten track. Described as the final frontier of

Vast hard corals await

You can freedive some wrecks diving in Indonesia, this bay offers some exceptional diving. Like its counterpart in the North, Triton Bay provides the opportunity to dive with whalesharks. The corals are pristine and plentiful, as is the marine life. Vast schools of fish, turtles, sharks, and many endemic species and macro critters call the bay home.

Sulawesi is one of the largest islands in the Indonesia archipelago, comprising of four main peninsulas and has long been known for its excellent diving. Most diving is located at either the northern peninsula or down the southeastern peninsula. Although the other peninsula also offers some superb diving. In the North, there is the Lembeh Strait, a world-renowned muck diving destination boasting a wealth of weird and wonderful creatures. The Bunaken National Park has its dramatic coral-encrusted walls and stunning marine life, including frogfish, sharks, schooling fish, and more.

Perhaps because it can be a bit difficult to get to the Kalimantan region on the island of Borneo is not as well-known as some of its neighbours, but it offers some outstanding diving. The Sangalaki island just off the east coast is a feeding ground for mantas, which gather there in large numbers. Other areas like Samana and Nabucco are excellent for critters, while Kakaban features drop-offs and pelagic action.

Indonesia has been blessed with great diving; there are some stunning resorts and some genuinely spectacular liveaboard diving, including relocation cruises when the boats are moved from one location to another. It is fantastic that this diving wonderland is once again open for eager divers to explore. n Getting there There are many flights to Indonesia from US hub airports and you can get internal flights to different areas.

When to visit You can dive in Indonesia all year round, though certain areas have better conditions at different times.

Currency Indonesian rupiah (US$1 = IDR14,500), though credit cards are generally accepted in-resort.

Entry Requirements You will need to get a visa on arrival in Indonesia that is valid for 30 days, and you must have six months left on your passport to expiry.

Electricity The electric supply in Indonesia is 230 volt / 50 hz and a two-pin European-style socket - you will need an adaptor.