Luxury Edition by The Adelaide Review

#01 2015/16 ADELAIDE R E V I E W. COM. AU

BY T H E ADELAIDE R E V I E W.

I N S I D E

SPRING FESTIVAL SEASON ADELAIDE’S DINING RESURGENCE JAMES SPREADBURY

HEARTS SKIP HEADS NOD

Overseas model shown.

MASERATI GHIBLI. THE ABSOLUTE OPPOSITE OF ORDINARY. THE NEW MASERATI GHIBLI IS POWERED BY A RANGE OF ADVANCED TURBO V6 ENGINES INCLUDING A V6 TURBODIESEL ENGINE AND AN ALL-NEW 8-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. UNDERPINNED BY MASERATI’S DISTINCTIVE MIX OF PERFORMANCE AND STYLE, THE GHIBLI WILL MAKE YOU FEEL AS CONFIDENT IN YOUR DECISION AS YOU’LL FEEL BEHIND THE WHEEL. GHIBLI DIESEL: ENGINE CAPACITY: 2987 CC - MAX POWER: 275HP AT 4000 RPM - MAX TORQUE: 600 NM AT 2000 RPM MAX SPEED: 250 KM/H - 0–100 KM/H: 6.3 SECS - FUEL CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 5.9 L/100 KM # GHIBLI S: ENGINE CAPACITY: 2979 CC - MAX POWER: 410 HP AT 5500 RPM - MAX TORQUE: 550 NM AT 4500 RPM MAX SPEED: 285 KM/H - 0–100 KM/H: 5.0 SECS - FUEL CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 10.4 L/100 KM # GHIBLI: ENGINE CAPACITY: 2979 CC - MAX POWER: 330 HP AT 5000 RPM - MAX TORQUE: 500 NM AT 4500 RPM MAX SPEED: 263 KM/H - 0–100 KM/H: 5.6 SECS - FUEL CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 9.6 L/100 KM # #

As per Australian Design Rule (ADR) 81/02.

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SOLITAIRE MASERATI 46-52 GLEN OSMOND ROAD, PARKSIDE SA 5063 TEL. 1300 856 429 SOLITAIRE.COM.AU DL65541

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TANZTHEATER WUPPERTAL

PINA BAUSCH

Nelken (Carnations)

In Australia for the first time in 16 years

EXCLUSIVE TO ADELAIDE

WED 9 MAR–SAT 12 MAR / FESTIVAL THEATRE PRESENTED BY ARRANGEMENT WITH ARTS PROJECTS AUSTRALIA

adelaidefestival.com.au Presenting Partner

BASS 131 246

#01 2015/16 L U X U RY BY THE ADELAIDE REVIEW

Cover: Zimmermann coat Photographer: Jonathan van der Knaap /

CONTENTS 14.

Spring festival season

15.

Personal luxury

20.

Rare necessities

26.

Luxury conversations

34.

Fashion

38.

Adelaide dining resurgence

42.

James Spreadbury

48.

Travel

Editor David Knight / Digital Manager Jess Bayly / Design Director Sabas Renteria / Administration & Distribution Kate Mickan / National Sales and Marketing Manager Tamrah Petruzzelli / Advertising Executives Tiffany Venning, Michelle Pavelic / Contributors Selena Battersby, Nathan James Crane, Valerie Henbest, Millie Herd, James Knight, Alexandra Meakin, Jessica Paterson and Paul Wood / Photographer Jonathan van der Knaap / Managing Director Manuel Ortigosa

#AdelaideReviewLuxury

#AdelaideReview

F R O M T H E E D I T O R / A D E L A I D E R E V I E W. C O M . A U / 9

EDITOR’S LETTER Welcome to the inaugural edition of LUXURY BY THE ADELAIDE REVIEW, a guide to luxurious and bespoke products and experiences created by and available to South Australians. To the LUXURY... team, luxury isn’t just about exclusive offerings only accessible to those with huge disposable incomes, it also encompasses bespoke and artisan products and experiences; unique offerings that have been created with love and care. In this issue we find out what luxury design means to designers such as Nick Mount and Ryan Genesin, discover the changing face of fine and exciting dining in South Australia, shoot some of the most remarkable fashion items available locally and find out why sleep is the greatest luxury. Enjoy. /

David Knight Editor, Luxury by The Adelaide Review

ART IS A MATTER OF TASTE REALLY GOOD TASTE Make your dessert a work of art with Beerenberg Dessert Sauces.

www.beerenberg.com.au

10 CALENDAR

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

Cultural calendar F R O M A R T S T O F O O D A N D W I N E , M A N Y W O R L D - C L A S S C U LT U R A L E V E N T S A R E AVA I L A B L E T O D I S C O V E R I N A D E L A I D E I N 2 0 1 5 / 1 6 . H E R E A R E O U R P I C K S

Cushion cover featuring Djenji (fish) design by Isaiah Nagurrgurrba, hand-printed in Gunbalanga on linen from Injalak Arts and Crafts.

OF S OM E OF T H E F I N E ST OF T H E YEA R.

ADELAIDE FESTIVAL OF ARTS Australia’s premier arts festival returns in 2016 with spectacular one-off events, epic theatre productions, experimental music showcases, contemporary dance and an impressive local line-up. For David Sefton’s last festival in charge, the Festival will open with a stadium spectacular family show, as French fireworks troupe Groupe F will take over Adelaide Oval for one night only. In the tradition of the six-hour Roman Tragedies, Adelaide Festival will once again host an epic with the trilogy, the James Plays. One of Sefton’s biggest coups for his final festival is the staging of Pina Bausch’s Nelken. Adelaide Festival runs from Friday, February 26 to Monday, March 14, 2016./

ADELAIDEFESTIVAL.COM.AU

TARNANTHI As part of the Art Gallery’s indigenous culture showcase Tarnanthi is the Tarnanthi Art Fair, which will be held on the opening weekend of the festival of contemporary Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art. More than 40 art centres from across the county will be represented at the art fair as arts lovers will have the opportunity to buy works priced from $50 to $10,000. The event is co-programmed with the Festival of Architecture and Design and entry is free. Tarnanthi runs from Thursday, October 8 to Sunday, October 18, 2015 with exhibitions continuing until Sunday, January 17, 2016. Tarnanthi Art Fair runs from Friday, October 9 (5pm-9pm) to Saturday, October 10 (10am-6pm) at Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute./

TARNANTHI.COM.AU

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OPALS!

TASTING AUSTRALIA

The South Australian Museum’s Opals! exhibition will showcase the finest opal unearthed to date, the Virgin Rainbow (pictured), which will be publicly displayed for the first time. Aside from this showcase piece, Opals! will house some of the most unique and fascinating opals from around the world to celebrate a centenary of opal mining in Australia. Opals! runs until Sunday, February 14, 2016./

The revamped Tasting Australia, under the stewardship of creative directors Simon Bryant (pictured) and Paul Henry, returns in 2016 as an annual event after a successful 2014 incarnation which saw international and national guests such as nose-to-tail champion Fergus Henderson, Skye Gyngell and James Henry mix it up with local identities such as Press’s Andrew Davies, FINO’s David Swain and Poh Ling Yeow. Tasting Australia will run from Sunday, May 1 to Sunday, May 8, 2016 with guests and program to be announced in November 2015./

SAMUSEUM.SA.GOV.AU/EXPLORE/EXHIBITIONS/OPALS

TASTINGAUSTRALIA.COM.AU

A RADIANT VINTAGE To commemorate the 2010 release of one of this country’s most celebrated wines, Henschke’s Hill of Grace, artist Rod Schubert was personally asked by the Henschke family to capture the essence of Hill of Grace’s historic single-site vines in Eden Valley. Since 1958, the 150-year-old vines from the four-hectre site have been used to craft Hill of Grace using biodynamic and organic principles. Schubert, who is from the Barossa, created a triptych, a series of three vines (Vines of Radiance 1, II and III), with Schubert saying he was captivated by the “dignity and age of these ancestors”.

“It’s almost as if the vines themselves have an inner glow that only comes with time and maturity,” he says. “I wasn’t trying to paint a simple vine; I was trying to portray an incredible life force that spans 150 years.” Each timber box of the 2010 Hill of Grace includes an image of Schubert’s triptych and limited edition prints are available for purchase from the winery. /

HENSCHKE.COM.AU

12 FEATURE

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

S T O R Y: J E S S I C A PAT E R S O N

Sleep: the ultimate luxury W H E N P E O P L E F I N D O U T T H AT I A M A S L E E P R E S E A R C H E R , T H E R E S P O N S E I S T Y P I C A L LY “ T H E N Y O U S H O U L D S T U D Y M E ! ” I N O D , I S M I L E A N D E N Q U I R E W H Y.

I ALWAYS HOPE to hear an uplifting tale about how wonderful their sleep is, how easy to attain, how they get a lot of it, and how they feel, see and really believe in the difference a good night’s sleep can make. Unfortunately, this is rarely the case.

A luxury is something indulgent and extravagant, something not necessary but highly desirable. For many, sleep is a luxury that comes at a price they are unwilling to pay. Indeed, a number of highly successful people have famously commented on how little sleep they need to function (wellknown ‘charmers’ such as Donald Trump and Margaret Thatcher, for example). Given what we know about the benefits of a good night’s sleep, and the negative consequences of sacrificing sleep, it’s no wonder that despite being ‘highly evolved’ we still spend one third of our lives in this vulnerable state. Indeed, it seems that sleep is perhaps life’s ultimate, and most necessary, luxury. Picture this. You are lying still on soft, cool sheets. You close your eyes and slow your breathing. You don’t have to do anything, or be anywhere. The room is dark; the pillow is soft. You drift off. When you wake up your brain has helpfully filed away the important things you learnt yesterday, and metabolised away the synaptic detritus. Your skin and eyes are brighter, clearer and you look happier. Your mood has improved, and you are more able to deal with conflict or crisis. Your body has regulated the release

of hormones that control hunger and satiety, and those that metabolise sugars, helping to protect you from metabolic disease and obesity. Your body has circulated melatonin, which boosts your immune system and even helps to minimise the risk of certain types of cancer. You’ve just spent eight solid hours at the best health spa money can’t buy. During a night of sleep the brain and body dance a well-choreographed routine. Upon falling asleep, you enter the ‘light’ stages of sleep: Stages 1 and 2. In these stages you are easily awoken and if so, may not realise you have been asleep. You don’t spend long here before moving on to deep sleep, or Slow Wave Sleep (SWS). The first two thirds of the night are made up primarily of SWS. During this time our body is conserving energy (body temperature, oxygen consumption and heart rate decline to aid this process), our Central Nervous System (CNS) is getting a chance to recuperate, and we are forming memories for events and facts. Rapid Eye Movement (REM) sleep, arguably the celebrity of the sleep stages, appears in snatches during the first six or so hours of the night but it is in the final third of the sleep period that REM predominates. In REM sleep, our body is paralysed, but our brain is highly active. REM sleep helps to regulate mood, and there is mixed evidence for a role of REM in consolidating emotional memory and memory for well-rehearsed tasks, like riding a bike. And yes, REM is the stage of sleep most commonly associated with highly visual dreaming. The meaning, or lack thereof, of those dreams is another can of worms, to be opened another day.

“FOR MANY, SLEEP IS A LUXURY THAT COMES AT A PRICE THEY ARE UNWILLING TO PAY.”/

While your body is cycling through sleep stages, giving priority first to SWS then later to REM, your body temperature is dropping. Towards the end of the night, as dawn approaches, your body temperature will begin to rise again. With your appetite for sleep satisfied, you will wake. Your body does all this work, while you lie back with your feet up. An indulgent luxury, indeed! So, the next time you consider staying up late to get something done because it seems more important than sleeping, think of all the things your body can’t do without a good night’s sleep. Time spent asleep is seldom time wasted. This way, perchance one day we meet, and when I tell you I work in sleep research, you can be the one to take me by surprise. /

DR JESSICA PATERSON, RESEARCH FELLOW.

L U X U RY /

FESTIVALS

#01 / 2015/16

S T O R Y: D AV I D K N I G H T P H O T O : A D E L A I D E FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L

A new festival season ONCE UPON A TIME all of Adelaide’s cultural festivals seemed to be crammed into one month for a hive of activity during the Mad March period before sleepy old Adelaide bedded down for the rest of the year and quietly waited for the summer festival period to rear its head in 11 months’ time.

But in 2013, the Adelaide Film Festival and its festival partner the Adelaide Festival of Ideas, decided to break from the summer festival cluster in a smart October move to join OzAsia as a major spring festival. These three festivals didn’t warrant a new festival season tag, however, as they didn’t have the numbers and reach of this city’s festival juggernauts, the Adelaide Fringe and the Adelaide Festival of Arts. Early in 2015, Premier Jay Weatherill flagged that the Government was working on a new cluster of events to rival Mad March. With a slew of new festivals, October is Adelaide’s new festival month as the two-year-old Festival of Architecture and Design (FAD) and a State Government-boosted Adelaide Fashion Festival join Adelaide Film Festival, CheeseFest and OzAsia (which begins in September and finishes in early October) for a spring festival season, which will be bolstered by the return of Festival of Ideas next year. While the summer festival season focus is purely on arts and music (WOMADelaide, the four big Clipsal 500 concerts as well as Future Music join the Fringe and Festival during Mad March), the spring festival season has a different feel, as design takes centre stage along with the arts. FAD and the Fashion Festival show that this city’s festivals needn’t just be relegated to the arts to bring a new dimension to what major cultural festivals in this state can offer. Festivals Adelaide – an alliance of 10 Adelaide festivals including Fringe, SALA, Adelaide Film Festival, OzAsia and Cabaret Festival – Executive Officer Christie Anthoney says the alliance welcomes the spring festival season as they believe clustering works. “We think that like-minded activity, drawing on cultural travellers, tourists or people who are likely to dip in and out of activities, is a really sensible idea,” Anthoney says. “We completely encourage and look forward to another burst of activity in spring.” While Festivals Adelaide only represents Adelaide Film Festival and OzAsia at this stage, Anthoney says festivals not represented by the alliance can look at Festivals Adelaide’s constitution to see if it works for them. “We’re an open armed organisation for those that fit the criteria and wish to be part of the alliance,” she says.

“THE SUMMER ARTS FESTIVALS IS AN AMAZING GROUP THAT COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER PERFECTLY AND WE THINK IT’S TERRIFIC THAT SPRING WILL NOW BE LOOKING AT THE SAME OPPORTUNITY.”/ Anthoney visited Edinburgh in August 2015, as Adelaide was invited to join a network festival of cities meeting, which featured major cultural destinations such as Barcelona, Montreal, Berlin, Krakow and Edinburgh, places that are considered to be ‘festival cities’. “We were invited on the basis that we are the city in Australia that sells the largest number of tickets to festival events,” Anthoney says. “Live Performance Australia put out an amazing 2014 ticketing survey that shows that South Australia sells 56 percent of all festival tickets in the country. We sell more than the other states combined. On that basis we’ve joined an international festival city network and one of the things we know is that festivals work in Adelaide. “The summer arts festivals is an amazing group that complement each other perfectly and we think it’s terrific that spring will now be looking at the same opportunity. We think the size and scale of the city is perfect, we’re recognised as a festival city internationally and we think the people of Adelaide have it in their DNA to understand festivals and to get out and love them.” /

FESTIVALSADELAIDE.COM.AU ADELAIDEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG ADELAIDEFESTIVALCENTRE.COM.AU/OZASIA-FESTIVAL ADELAIDEFASHIONFESTIVAL.COM.AU FAD.ORG.AU

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PROFILES

PERSONAL LUXURY L U X U RY M E A N S D I F F E R E N T THINGS TO DIFFERENT PEOPLE.

S T O R Y: A L E X A N D R A M E A K I N P H O T O S : J O N AT H A N VA N D E R K N A A P

TO SOME IT IS RELAXING in a five-star resort on a tropical island, to many it is reading a book for a half-an-hour in the comfort of their backyard while to others just spending time with family and friends is a luxury. Over the following pages, we ask four South Australian identities what luxury means to them. /

TRUDYANNE BROWN

TONY PARKINSON

DOUGLAS GAUTIER

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L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

TRUDYANNE BROWN B M G G A L L E RY D I R E C T O R /

TO BE ABLE TO WORK in a profession that you love is a luxury in itself. Trudyanne Brown has been fortunate to work in a field that has ignited her passion for many years. Now as owner and director of South Australia’s BMG Art Gallery she is afforded the great pleasure of curating collections of contemporary Australian art.

In her own home, sentimental works of art adorn walls and crevices each as beautiful as the next, but one piece in particular stands out amongst the rest. Brown fell hopelessly in love with the magnificent Untitled painting by Sydney artist, Todd Hunter. Already familiar with his other works, she made the decision to forfeit a holiday in order to obtain the must-have piece. Drawn to the painting through the vivid display of colour and energy in Hunter’s work, Brown believes it is the epitome of artistic perfection. Sitting adjacent to an impressive corner nook library, the painting consumes most of the living room wall. Coincidentally the Untitled painting appears as if it had always been destined to hang in this space assuming a sense of home wonderfully with its grandiose. “Luxury means something you often can’t afford and an abundance of something that brings you an enormous amount of pleasure, to me, this painting is it,” she says. “One of my greatest luxuries is to always have fresh flowers in the house and to have home grown herbs in the garden that you can walk outside and pick yourself. I am lucky to have both of these things in this space.”/

“LUXURY MEANS SOMETHING YOU OFTEN CAN’T AFFORD AND AN ABUNDANCE OF SOMETHING THAT BRINGS YOU AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF PLEASURE”./

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TONY PARKINSON P R I N C I PA L , P E N N Y ’ S H I L L E S TAT E /

TONY PARKINSON established Penny’s Hill Winery with the purchase of land some 27 years ago. In 1998 the business was fortunate enough to acquire the Ingleburne homestead and develop the winery into an outlet of premium wine and fine food.

Standing against a backdrop of budding vines and lush grass grounds, Parkinson talks of his admiration for the right pair of shoes and a quality timepiece, but when it comes to luxury, nothing compares to the winery museum cellar. “I like to keep things simple,” he says. “I am incredibly lucky to be in the wine industry and have always thought of wine as a luxury item in itself. Our private wine cellar contains at least one bottle of every red we’ve ever made and I find it a pure luxury to have access to that. To me, it’s about lining up our heritage from starting at zero and being able to look back on it and say, ‘This is now a highly prized reminder of what we have been able to accomplish’.” While wine is the pinnacle of his hard work, passion and dedication, Parkinson is the first to admit it can often be the simple pleasures that bring the largest amounts of joy in life. Renowned for his love of vanilla ice-cream and a good hot chocolate, he will go out of his way to hunt down these treats no matter the time, place or country. He says the most luxurious hot chocolate he ever consumed was in Sweden. When it comes to ice-cream, he can’t go past our very own Golden North. /

“I AM INCREDIBLY LUCKY TO BE IN THE WINE INDUSTRY AND HAVE ALWAYS THOUGHT OF WINE AS A LUXURY ITEM IN ITSELF”./

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

DOUGLAS GAUTIER C E O A N D A RT I S T I C D I R E C T O R O F A D E L A I D E F E S T I VA L C E N T R E /

HAVING EMBARKED on a longstanding career in the performing arts, Douglas Gautier has collected guitars from all corners of the globe. Combining a love of music and beautiful artisanship, to him, this collection is the definition of luxury.

Among Douglas’ prized collection lies a sentimental Japanese-made Fender his wife bought for him before they were married, a classic Yamaha from Hong Kong that he plans to one day teach his kids to play on and a 70-year-old Les Paul Gibson electric guitar, the instrument he bought for a reunion show he played with his band. “They’re beautiful things,” he says. “All handmade, they’re exceptional examples of great craftsmanship. There are still only a small number of people who manufacture these instruments and a great deal of care goes into making them, you can feel that when you play. An enormous amount of effort has been put into the fittings, the feel, use of wood and in getting the sounds right for each. They’re world-class musical instruments and the thought that goes into the craft is astounding. That’s why they’re a piece of luxury.” A stand out piece in the eclectic collection is a glowing amber Guild Slim Jim guitar, complete with its own rope handled sky blue case. An instrument with a story, Gautier sold this guitar to childhood friend Mark Bromilow, whose career saw him travel the world as a Resident Director of Cirque du Soleil. Years passed and the instrument eventually made its way home to Australia where it was gifted back to Gautier, its original owner./

“THEY’RE WORLDCLASS MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS AND THE THOUGHT THAT GOES INTO THE CRAFT IS ASTOUNDING. THAT’S WHY THEY’RE A PIECE OF LUXURY.”/

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SOPHIA LEOPARDI D I R E C T O R AT W I L L I A M S B U R T O N L E O PA R D I /

CELEBRATING 12 YEARS with Williams Burton Leopardi in 2015, Sophia Leopardi balances a career with life at home with her son, Hudson. Understanding how valuable time is embodies the essence of luxury for Leopardi.

Whether it is focusing time and energy into creating relevant and meaningful residences for her clients, to time spent unwinding with a book in the spaces of her home, to the time she is able to spend bonding with Hudson, each minute is a gift. Leopardi’s home is a true reflection of her passion for design. Immaculately presented, one can’t help but notice the abundance of natural light filtering in and illuminating photos of her new family alongside bundles of beautifully positioned literature. “Going to work means that I can reconnect with my former self, the person I once was before having a child,” she says. “One part of my life now amplifies the other and I appreciate that time to focus on my passion but I also just can’t wait to get home to Hudson. This balance allows me to fully appreciate the specialness of spending time with Hudson and watching him discover the world. When I look at my son and realise he is an embodiment of my partner, our families and myself, it is quite profound. From the moment you have a child you’re different, you find another side of yourself and I feel really fortunate to be able to explore this other dimension in both my work and home lives. They are so deeply intermeshed and work in unison to make each shine more brightly.”/

“GOING TO WORK MEANS THAT I CAN RECONNECT WITH MY FORMER SELF, THE PERSON I ONCE WAS BEFORE HAVING A CHILD.”/

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

RARE NECESSITIES A C O L L E C T I O N O F B E AU T I F U L P R O D U C T S AVA I L A B L E I N LO CAL STOR ES

P H OTOS : J O N AT H A N VA N D E R K N A A P

S E C T I O N / A D E L A I D E R E V I E W. C O M . A U / 2 1

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

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26 DESIGN

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

S T O R Y: N AT H A N J A M E S C R A N E

LU XU RY CON VERSA TIONS DE S IG N I S A M E DI U M T H ROUG H W H IC H W E C A N E A S I LY E N G A G E W I T H L U X U RY.

DESIGNERS AND MAKERS of bespoke objects and interiors create an opportunity for us to experience and enjoy the pleasures of life through their work.

It is in conversation with these craftspeople that we can have a greater understanding of the value contemporary luxury design and craft add to our lives. Through the following vignettes with local designers and creatives, we are able to glimpse the everyday, implicit and evocative essence of what it means to experience luxury through design./

RYAN GENESIN

SALLY PAECH

NICK MOUNT

S E C T I O N / A D E L A I D E R E V I E W. C O M . A U / 2 7

BRIGHT IDEAS FOR BEAUTIFUL KITCHENS FROM HÄFELE.

The true secret behind a show-stopping kitchen is making the best available use of space. Kesseböhmer Clever Storage Solutions from Häfele offer a complete range of brilliantly organised kitchen storage that will be the envy of anyone yet to discover this outstanding functionality. Let yourself be seduced by some of the world’s most innovative solutions. Perfectly engineered for today’s modern kitchen, this is storage as it should be – simple, stylish and effective. From the elegant CONVOY Premio, to the luxurious LeMans II, no space is wasted. Everything is in place. Everything is within reach. For more information visit our showroom at 21 Chesser Street, Adelaide SA 5000.

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(08) 8232 9933

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

Luxurious calm W I T H RYA N G E N E S I N

LUXURY can be translated through interior architecture in many ways. For Adelaide-based designer Ryan Genesin, of Genesin Studio, it’s about communicating a calm sense of balance.

“Luxury takes time,” says Genesin. The designer, a graduate of Interior Architecture at the University of South Australia, is an award-winning practitioner having worked on numerous high-end residential and commercial fit outs in both South Australia and interstate. One of his most recent projects, the new Aesop store on Rundle Street, established Genesin as one of Adelaide’s most in-demand designers. The project recently won his practice the 2015 Belle Coco Republic Interior Design Award for Best Commercial Interior. The bespoke interior project allowed Genesin to understand the nature of the Aesop brand. “You don’t have to overcook things, it can be beautifully simple,” he says. “The age of a brand creates a certain luxury.” Genesin is quick to point out the importance of creating autonomy within a domestic setting when I ask about his private residential work. “We like to deeply understand a client’s lifestyle, so that we can make beautiful spaces and experiences. We always try and create a sense of theatre. Understanding how we use our homes is important. There is day and night in the home. We like to give our clients integration, especially through bespoke joinery.” Genesin is particularly interested in the design of a bathroom, which he says is a “ritual space” for him. “Small comforts like a heated towel rail, which is a simple comfort, can connect people with a feeling of luxury. There are different levels that you can take this into as well, from great taps to having access, and an ease to the whole process, which brings about a level of luxury.” When it comes to Adelaide’s growing appreciation for great design, public exposure can translate to the home. “The more people are seeing and experiencing [great design] develops a richer design community; people understand the value of design more. There are more facets to design now too, through social media and a heightened sense of the importance of branding. Clients and the public are coming to expect more from design than just paint and some new chairs. That trick is finished.” Is there a South Australian perspective on luxury? “I think there is an understanding for our city, and we respect it,” says Genesin, “Adelaide is very tight knit, in that we are able to find our own way. We design in our own way. We often have to do a lot more with a lot less [compared to our eastern counterparts], so in its own right, we have to do things differently.” Speaking to Genesin, it becomes evident that exposing the value of good design – and heightening a user’s experience – is vital for his practice. He is evoking a sense of the sacred in the everyday, through elevating daily activities such as bathing, dressing and eating through design. This is best summarised by Genesin: “It is about finding the right balance. Everyone has a different balance and calmness that comes from that. In fact, it is luxury that comes from this balance.”/

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“CLIENTS AND THE PUBLIC ARE COMING TO EXPECT MORE FROM DESIGN THAN JUST PAINT AND SOME NEW CHAIRS. THAT TRICK IS FINISHED.”/

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1./ CJB Residence bathroom 2./ Aesop Rundle st shopfront 3./ TMK Residence

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If tables could talk W I T H S A L LY PA E C H

ADELAIDE HILLS’ Beerenberg Farm is undergoing somewhat of a brand

renaissance, including a $14 million expansion of their seventh-generation Australian-owned family farm. Beerenberg has more than 65 products for sale in 24 countries, is available on major airlines and is in more than 300 hotels worldwide. With renewed vigour, the company has collaborated with local artisans to produce an exclusive crockery and cutlery range. The collection is the brainchild of Sally Paech, whose family found Beerenberg, and is Beerenberg’s marketing director.

When asked about the impetus for the project, she replies, “The design was inspired by the classic, natural beauty of the land, hence our colour palette of stone, mist, snow and dusk. As farmers and custodians of our property, we are deeply connected with the land and the range was an opportunity to express this.” Working with ceramicists Jane Burbidge and James Edwards, the series, including serving bowls and other artisan tableware, is suggestively titled If Tables Could Talk. The brand is strongly imbedded in the Adelaide Hills landscape, and has a strong international following. This collection is an exciting expansion of an already present South Australian icon, and strongly positions Beerenberg Farm within not only the design and craft community, but as a luxury offering for consumers. There is a subtleness to the tableware. Burbidge and Edwards communicate Beerenberg’s connection with the land with a sophisticated response, celebrating the land through craftsmanship. Speaking of the artists

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1./ Selection of hand-made ceramic pieces from Beerenberg’s If Tables Could Talk collection 2./ Small ceramic bowls (from bottom to top) in snow, stone, dusk and mist 3./ Large serving bowl

“...LUXURY CAN BE FOUND IN THE SIMPLER THINGS IN LIFE.”/

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responsible for producing the range, Paech says, “We have a fantastic collaborative relationship with Worth Gallery and ceramicists Jane and James. Aesthetically we wanted our connection with the land to come through. We were lucky to work with two South Australian makers who immediately and innately identified with this.” Through craftsmanship and their beautifully simple forms, the collection suggests a quietness and authenticity to the brand’s approach to luxury. For Paech, one way of thinking about luxury through food and dining is a “bountiful feast displayed beautifully with lots of colour and interesting textures, delightful aromas, inspiring music and, of course, absolute deliciousness!” The tableware is an invitation to enjoy the simplicity of a wonderful meal, the company of friends and the innate beauty inherent in handcrafted objects. Luxury is found in making and sharing an experience of food and conversation. No doubt, it is through the medium of design that we can facilitate these exchanges with friends and family.

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South Australia’s strong craft heritage is celebrated through this venture, and provides an insight into how luxury can be understood and felt through design, encouraging, as Paech confirms, “taking the time to stop and reconnect with yourself and with things or people that make you feel this way”. It is a rousing premise: repositioning design as a platform through which we can connect and enrich our daily lives. Beerenberg Farm’s tableware collaboration demonstrates the value that can be offered through engagement with the design community, and the everyday activities that can be enlivened through this handcrafted luxury. When asked about this perspective, Paech replies, “I like to think that perhaps we have a heightened awareness that luxury can be found in the simpler things in life, and from the hands of artisans, rather than through mass-produced, poor quality offerings.”/

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Luxury is essential WITH NICK MOUNT

NICK MOUNT’S premise for luxury is simple: it’s essential. As we sit in the prominent glass artist’s adorned dining room, surrounded by his elegant works and photos of his family, it is impossible to deny that he is indeed embodying his declaration. “Luxury depends on time and place,” he says. “Luxury for me is the opportunity to go to work, and the opportunity to develop hand skills and understanding through the process of work, which is my craft.”

Working across several areas within the luxury goods sector including art, wine and tourism, interior design and lighting, Mount’s work is exceptionally well crafted. “When you travel, what you see is what is put forward as that country’s culture. Attention to detail and hands skills in fashion or craft is offered as part of that culture.” There is an inherent finesse in the artist’s work. When asked if he thinks craftsmanship is a luxury, Mount suggests, “If we don’t treat luxury as an essential, we lose our culture. I think it is extremely important that people that make up our community are busy with their hands. Work gives you a sense of identity, a sense of politics and of place. It gives you a context within your family and the community.” A lot of Mount’s work is initiated through collaborations with the luxury market, including Rockford’s Black Shiraz glasses, Penfolds’ remarkable ‘ampoules’ of 2004 Kalimna Block 42 (at $168,000, the most expensive wine in the world to be directly sold from a winery) and private overseas commissions for high-end residential projects. The other important component of his practice is self-driven exhibition pieces, in which he articulates his own brief. This allows the opportunity to “show what we think is important to talk about”. Mount travels and teaches glasswork internationally. He also exhibits regularly in Europe, the United States and Japan. On the shifting presence of South Australia’s luxury identity, Mount says, “food and wine is at the top of the list in South Australia, and I think design and craft fits in pretty well with that. It is an extremely supportive section of the market. Food and wine is a craft as well.” Mount is deeply invested in local institutions that encourage craft. “I am amazed at what an incredible community of makers we have in South Australia. The community particularly in the JamFactory is unique worldwide. We have our people teaching classes in North America, and in Canada, amongst many others. That is an incredible thing for a place like Adelaide, which is so far away from there, to be so proudly associated with our craft.” So what of our evolving legacy within design and craft? Mount is adamant that the shift occurring at ground level in South Australia is crucial to a cultural sense of self. “It would be great if our community and our culture developed towards an identity in crafts, and to admit that it is an essential luxury.” There is sincerity to Mount’s perspective, as it leads to bigger questions around national identity. He perfectly surmises this by stating, “What any culture leaves behind is craft. It’s not something we can do without. It’s essential.”/

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“WHAT ANY CULTURE LEAVES BEHIND IS CRAFT. IT’S NOT SOMETHING WE CAN DO WITHOUT. IT’S ESSENTIAL.”/

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1./ Rockford Black Shiraz Glasses, by Nick Mount 2./ Limited Edition Penfolds Ampoule by Nick Mount

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RE FLEC TIONS FLEC RE Photographer: Jonathan van der Knaap Hair: James Knight, MABE Make-up: Millie Herd Styling: Selena Battersby Model: Lucy, Pride Models Location: Thank you to Daniel and Julia for the use of their lovely home

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BALMAIN COAT from The New Guard /

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C/MEO COLLECTIVE DRESS from BNKR

DRIES VAN NOTEN COAT AND BALMAIN WOOL MINI DRESS

from The New Guard, ADIDAS Y-3 YOHJI YAMAMOTO SNEAKERS /

TY-LR SHIRT from ty-lr.com, ISABEL MARANT SKIRT from The New Guard, CHLOE FINGER BRACELET from The New Guard /

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BALMAIN WOOL MINI DRESS

from The New Guard /

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DINING

#01 / 2015/16

Lachlan Colwill. Photo: Jonathan van der Knaap

Adelaide’s dining resurgence A F E W Y E A R S A G O A D E L A I D E ’ S R E S TAU R A N T S C E N E L O O K E D T O B E I N A B I T O F T R O U B L E , E S P E C I A L LY F O R F I N E A N D E XC I T I N G D I N I N G. T H I S I S N O T T H E C A S E N O W A S A P L E T H O R A O F O P T I O N S C AT E R I N G F O R A L L TA S T E S H AV E P O P P E D U P I N T H E C I T Y AND REGIONAL AREAS.

S T O R Y: D AV I D K N I G H T

MUCH HAS BEEN MADE of Adelaide’s dining resurgence which was recognised by the recent Hot 50 Restaurants in The Weekend Australian where seven South Australian restaurants placed in the annual list and Gourmet Traveller’s 2016 Australian Restaurant Guide where six local eateries made the top 100 including Orana at number 10 and Magill Estate at number 11.

But four years ago, Adelaide’s restaurant scene wasn’t cooking on all burners. Aside from old favourites such as Chloe’s and Auge, there weren’t too many fine dining options as Magill Estate was on a two-year break while Grange’s doors were long closed. The first signs of life in Adelaide happened in a small block on Waymouth Street with Georges on Waymouth joined by Press, Bistro Dom and Melt to create a destination strip. The fine dining resurgence followed, led by Jock Zonfrillo’s move from Magill Estate (when it was still undergoing renovations) to start Orana, which has won global acclaim with Zonfrillo’s quest for a native cuisine landing him a cover story in the world’s hippest food magazine – Fool. His replacements at Magill Estate (the husband and wife team of Scott Huggins and Emma McCaskill) brought a minimal elegance from their time at some of Japan’s best restaurants to once again return Magill Estate to its lofty heights. Then there is Peel Street, which was recently named the hottest value restaurant by The Australian, Fino Seppeltsfield, which surprised many with its seemingly seamless move from McLaren Vale to the Barossa and the ever-reliable Appellation, while Duncan Welgemoed’s move from Bistro Dom to create the lively Africola allowed Welgemoed to celebrate his South African roots. Then there is Hentley Farm. Under the guidance of Head Chef Lachlan Colwill, it has impressed many with its experimental fine dining inspired by the Barossa. The 29-year-old chef took a gamble when he left The

Manse to head home to the Barossa to set up a restaurant with only two degustation menus: the three-hour Discovery menu and the 90 minute du Jour menu. Colwill was concerned about Adelaide’s dining scene and this was part of the reason why he headed to the country. “I had this feeling of, well if the city’s dining scene is kind of dying off, maybe I’ll go to the country and it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t pick up and be the next big thing because at least I’m away from the dying city,” he says. “At least I’m in the countryside chilling. At least my lifestyle will be good; I’m not in the city grinding it out feeling like I’m getting nowhere.” Hill of Grace’s Head Chef Dennis Leslie is another chef who had doubts about Adelaide’s restaurants a few years ago. Leslie left the Hilton’s Brasserie and became Adelaide Oval’s Executive Sous Chef in 2013, a role he coupled with heading up Adelaide Oval’s fine dining restaurant Hill of Grace last year. “It was really two-fold,” Leslie says about his past concerns. “I was concerned about Adelaide’s dining scene and I was really concerned about the amount of Adelaide chefs coming up. I didn’t think there was enough good chefs, good qualified chefs, to give it a push, give it a nudge.” Colwill, whose Seppeltsfield-based Hentley Farm forms a Barossa dining hub with neighbours Appellation and Fino Seppeltsfield, believes the chefs drove the dining resurgence. “I’ve been in the Adelaide scene for 10 years or so,” Colwill says. “Over the past 10 years there’d been this sort of feeling that there wasn’t much around and that if you wanted to do something you had to make it yourself. I think in the last three to four years, there’s been a good mix of young and middle-age chefs, who have just made that connection and thought, ‘Look, if I want to do something, if I want to be on the international stage – or the national stage – I’m probably going to have to do it myself’. So someone like Jock [Zonfrillo] from Orana, he put himself out there and on the line, as did Duncan [Welgemoed] from Africola. I think we [Hentley Farm] did the same thing, took a risk and put ourselves out there and were willing to back the young team and ourselves. “It has worked out really well, and we’re all sharing the same clientele and people are enjoying each venue as equally as each other,” he says. “There’s not one place where they say, ‘That’s the absolute stand out Adelaide restaurant’. We’re all up there, the standards are right up there, and it’s getting recognised nationally, which is really nice. It’s a good confidence booster for the young guys who have done the hard yards over the past 10 years or so.”

Food has always been a wonderful way to demonstrate respect and affection. The better the quality, the more honour bestowed upon guests. That belief has always guided Taylor & Holmes, which is why we define our Values with this one word:

Generosity. It’s our nature.

Hill of Grace. Photo: Supplied

For catering and fine dining enquires contact us on: P: 08 8354 1716 E: office@taylorandholmes.com.au

L U X U RY / #01 / 2015/16

Hill of Grace. Photo: Supplied

The menu at Hill of Grace reflects this change of confidence; influenced by Leslie’s Filipino heritage, as well as his time cooking overseas and in local restaurants, it features a unique menu, which you won’t find anywhere else. A menu that wasn’t possible in Adelaide five years ago. Leslie believes that a lot of the top chefs are now staying at home, which encourages up and coming chefs to stay in Adelaide. “They’re the driving force for young kids to look up to them and say, ‘I want to work with that guy. I want to work with him or her and achieve that goal.’ They don’t have to travel overseas. And we’re not losing that pool of talent moving elsewhere. “That was one of my big concerns: we do all the hard work, give them that apprenticeship, give them that skillset, and then they go to the east coast or overseas. The other thing, three years ago there wasn’t any of those cool hip places, I think there was more of that food truck trend that was coming on board. That was cool, too because it was really good food.” Colwill believes that young Adelaide chefs now have a range of places to go and learn their trade while for his generation, if they wanted to be a top chef; they either went to The Manse or Magill Estate. “A few years ago all the chefs who are doing something now were still in school, all working together, and working out if they were going to stay in Adelaide. They were working on their concepts and their feelings about what restaurants they wanted to go into. I think it’s really exciting now, with someone like Duncan, Duncan was pushed down the fine dining road, doing that at Bistro Dom, and I think for him a penny dropped and he realised he could do pretty much whatever he wanted. He went to Africola, casual-ed up his whole style, but kept his knife sharp. He had a good skill set, so it’s not like you’re going to lose that as soon as you go into a casual restaurant. I think that’s what the other states really achieve – especially in Sydney and Melbourne – their casual restaurants have well-trained chefs. That is something we lacked in the middle ground, people with good skills but who just work in a casual, relaxed place.”

“YOU THINK OF THE TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS IN THIS STATE AND YOU THINK OF THE CHEFS THAT ARE IN THOSE TOP FIVE, THEY’RE ALL PRETTY YOUNG. THEY’VE ALL GOT ORIGINAL IDEAS, ORIGINAL THINGS TO PRESENT TO THE COMMUNITY AND THEIR GUESTS. THAT’S THE MAIN THING THAT’S LED THE WAY. THEY’VE GOT THIS ABILITY TO SHARE THIS WITH EVERYBODY AND EVERYBODY’S ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT IT.”/

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For Leslie, he believes a lot of young enthusiastic chefs are coming up the ranks and “they’re really finding their voice and getting confident with their skills, ability and knowledge”. “You think of the top five restaurants in this state and you think of the chefs that are in those top five, they’re all pretty young. They’ve all got original ideas, original things to present to the community and their guests. That’s the main thing that’s led the way. They’ve got this ability to share this with everybody and everybody’s enthusiastic about it.” Leslie thinks this rise in fine dining has been coupled with exciting options in the casual scene. “There are a lot of little or smaller restaurants, cafes and eateries that are just going gangbusters,” Leslie says. “Nghi Ngan Quan was just a small shop, then it turned into a bigger shop and now they’re so big they’ve got two locations. That’s an example that if you do good food, people will come. And it’s in that price bracket where it’s affordable for a lot of people who want to try the cuisine. That is one of the success stories. Places such as Lucky Lupitas and Hispanic Mechanic are all in that same category of really awesome food priced right in an awesome atmosphere – you can’t go wrong. So, it will be interesting in time to see where all of these places are in the future with so many restaurants opening down the track. That will be the telltale story: how supportive is the South Australian community? And what do they really want in terms of a dining experience? It’s here now, now it’s up to South Australia to get behind these restaurants and support them.” /

HENTLEYFARM.COM.AU ADELAIDEOVAL.COM.AU/ 4146/HILL-OF-GRACE-RESTAURANT Dennis Leslie. Photo: Supplied

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S T O R Y: PA U L W O O D P H OTOS : M I K K E L H E R I BA

James Spreadbury in Noma.

From Adelaide to Noma S I M P LY U T T E R I N G T H E W O R D N O M A B R I N G S A S PA R K L E T O A N Y D E D I C AT E D F O O D I E ’ S E Y E . I T ’ S T H E U LT I M AT E L U X U RY D I N I N G D E S T I N AT I O N, A N D O N E T H AT P E O P L E A R E W I L L I N G T O T R AV E R S E T H E G L O B E F O R , J U S T T O G E T A TA S T E O F T H E W E I R D A N D W O N D E R F U L D I S H E S C R E AT E D B Y G E N I U S C R E AT O R A N D H E A D C H E F R E N E R E D Z E P I .

PAUL WOOD was fortunate enough to stop in for lunch on a recent jaunt to Denmark, and meet a South Australian expat, helping lead Noma’s charge towards world domination.

Seven years ago, James Spreadbury left his job in Mclaren Vale, packed his headphones, his best sneakers, and the rest of his life into a suitcase and headed off to Scandinavia driven by a hunger for adventure, excitement, and culinary knowledge. After a short search, Spreadbury landed on the doorstep of one of the world’s best restaurants. They even gave him a job. He is now Noma’s Restaurant Manager; a job he loves and one that he lives and breathes. He says that working at an institution is all about the approach. There is a fine line between just being trendy and actually creating an experience for your guests. “Copenhagen is such a cool city, vibrant and growing, but relaxed and laidback,” Spreadbury says. “There is an ever growing restaurant scene, great coffee, amazing wine culture, and a strong community but the winter is hard, and long.” Spreadbury visits Adelaide almost every summer, and keeps up to date with our culinary revolution via his family, friends and business networks. “I have always been supportive of Adelaide and although I left, I really love it. Each year I return home to visit and it just gets better and better. My roots and the foundation of my career are based on what I learnt from working in South Australia. It is hard for Adelaide, being one of the smaller cities, but the relaxed lifestyle and close proximity to the hills, the coast and the wine growing regions makes it very special. “There is a strong, younger community that is pushing each other, supporting each other and they all have a genuine desire to create something special within food and hospitality, particularly showing the essence of what the industry is about.”

Spreadbury lists the former Fino in Willunga, Africola, and Orana as his top three SA restaurants. He misses Gouger Street haunts T-Chow and Ying Chow too. “I loved being down at Fino, close to the most amazing beaches and the wine community. You can’t get better than David Swain’s simple and delicious produce-focused cooking coupled with Sharon Romeo’s bursting energy.” “What Duncan (Welmegoed) is doing at Africola is super cool, and original. I think Jock (Zonfrillo) has done an amazing job in refining what is a focussed Australian and indigenous ingredient kitchen at Orana. I very much respect the work he has done with Aboriginal communities also. It is certainly one of the most interesting meals I’ve eaten in Australia in a long time.” While Noma is currently based at the end of Copenhagen’s famed NY haven waterfront, it has been known to pack its bags and pop up in the strangest of locations. Last year the entire team moved to Japan, left their recipe books at home and learnt an entirely new culinary language, but while Spreadbury explains more about this amazing experience, he says their next move is even more exciting, especially for those of us that don’t have plans to travel to Denmark in the near future. Noma’s next destination is Sydney, Australia. Spreadbury is keeping tight lipped on plans for Noma’s 10-week Barangaroo residency, though he is currently busy planning for the move in January 2016. “There is a huge amount of work and planning, from the set up and logistics of the dining room, down to every minor detail. But I’m not alone in this; we are a team working together to make the right decisions.” For Spreadbury, it’s a chance to be closer to home, but for his Noma colleagues it’s a chance to explore our landscapes and ingredients.

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“You can expect a very excited and passionate group of cooks and front of house, excited about our new discoveries and learnings of the land, the sea, and hopefully some of the most exciting Australian wines being made right now.” The Noma experience Stepping into Noma is like stepping into another world. It’s the Land of Oz, minus the Munchkins. There’s a secret here that no-one is telling. At least until the food arrives. Our welcome is practically a standing ovation, with most of the kitchen and front of house staff stopping to greet our arrival. I expect a brass band will pop out from behind the bar any moment to bolster the fanfare. We’re whisked into the warmest warehouse space that I’ve entered. It’s not just the fur pelt slung across the back of my dining chair. It’s the heart and soul of this place, in the walls and in the floors. There is nothing stark about this Scandinavian style. A mid-August sun streams through huge arch windows, reflected by light timber floors, then absorbed by dark furniture, hewn beams and stone painted walls. In true foraged style, the first two courses feature berries. Six strawberry halves are perched on a bed of crushed ice, a chamomile flavour melding with the salty punch from a single caper in each bite. The freshest of blueberries and raspberries swim in a thyme-infused soup, silky smooth and lightly acidic with a residual oiliness that sticks to the palate. Next, house bread, made from Øland wheat, is served with lashings of virgin butter. And then a single cabbage leave hides a paste of white currents. Pops of coriander blends with a parsley paste smeared around the rim of the bowl. Each course is brought to the table by a chef or waiter, each explained with the same care and precision that goes into the preparation and presentation of the food in the kitchen. And what a kitchen it is. In a later tour, we are ushered through meticulously oiled cogs turning behind the scene, where cooking and artistry come together in perfect unison. Chefs stop to explain the preparation of dishes, happy to indulge this kid-in-acandy store asking questions about everything and anything. Just being here and seeing this mollifies a most ravenous appetite. On the subject of appetite, desire is quickly sated as grilled and fired green shoots of the season is delivered. This has a base of scallop paste, daubed across a stone base. This salad is designed, rather than plated and is a wonder to behold, and to devour. Precision is displayed in a dish of sweet peas, a cow’s milk curd and finely sliced slivers of kelp. The peas are sweet- the last harvest of the season, and the kelp has spent four days in a mushroom broth resulting in a velvety texture, woody in flavour but with a residual hint of the sea. The ugly duckling of dishes arrives blackened and charred. Sliced open to reveal oniony flesh, sweet and savory. Ashes of papery outer skin complete a flavour profile that should be ordinary, but is not. The hedgehog of the sea is served with hazelnut, a punchy fishy hit toned by the woody sweetness of this under-valued nut. The sea urchin roe is served sans-spikey outer shell, which is a nice change from the usual attempts to shock. Flower tart follows potatoes, eaten with a sharpened branch. The potatoes are good, but it’s the tart that manages to confound the senses. How can I simply be eating bright petals on a grassy dough-base, yet feel as though a million flavours and textures have been worked into the dish? While listing these dishes, there are some that you need to taste for yourself. Like sweet shrimps wrapped in nasturtium leaves, or slices of mahogany clam served with nothing but fine grains. Or frozen monkfish liver reminiscent of grated carrot on toast, but with incredible smoky flavour that you’ll not soon forget. For me, Noma’s standout dish is a simple combination that sings with every mouthful. Just three main ingredients swimming in a creamy

NOMA IS SPECIAL. WHIMSICAL. MAGICAL. INSPIRATIONAL. IT’S A HORSE OF A DIFFERENT COLOUR./ foam. Pumpkin, rose petals and caviar. This is one example of innovation. Nothing is as it really should seem, or taste, and that’s what elevates this meal from interesting to pure magic. Just one more meaty dish before we move onto the sweet stuff. Roasted, or more specifically, barbecued (in the outdoor kitchen) bone marrow. This is presented as a build your own in the san choy bao style. Manicured baby cabbage leaves wrap around the gelatinous marrow, and flower petals cut through the fat, adding lightness to the dish. Berries and greens soaked in a vinegar reduction is an excitement of flavour and texture. Purposely frozen cherries verge on causing brain freeze when bitten, but with mouth-heat comes a sweet flavour. Tartness is a feature, with dried and soaked flower petals. Touted as the ultimate super-food, a paste made from the Aronia berry. It is mouth puckering good. Bitter, sour, but with a resounding tart sweetness after initial impact. In the food game, balance is key, and Noma have it consistently spot on. Finally, the showstopper. A literal edible menagerie. Arranged artfully on a bed of soft moss, these are flavours of the forest floor - all coated in the finest of chocolate. Reindeer moss is the most interesting ingredient. This is foamy to chew and has a woody flavour. Reindeers sure do have good taste. Noma is special. Whimsical. Magical. Inspirational. It’s a horse of a different colour. And it’s coming to Oz. /

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CHEESE

#01 / 2015/16

Cheese: luxurious complexity T H E W O R D L U X U RY I S O N E T H AT I N S TA N T LY CON JU R E S U P A W I DE R A N G E OF I M AG E S A N D R EACT ION S S PEC I F IC TO EAC H OF US.

S T O R Y: VA L E R I E H E N B E S T

TO MY CHILDREN, it seems to resonate more along the lines of the unaffordable, super exclusive and, mostly, unnecessary indulgences. To me – with full time work, four children and family in both hemispheres of the globe – luxury is, among other things, time. Time that I am, of course, very poor of. Time that I would like to put aside to do what matters to me the most. Time to slow down. Time to enjoy simple things. Time to allow all five senses to engage in simple daily sensory experiences. This is probably one of the main reasons I enjoy teaching the art of tasting cheese so much, you cannot teach this in a rush.

Luxury is making a conscious decision to surround myself with worthwhile and well-crafted items, whatever they might be. Take cheese, for example. First of all, is it a luxurious item in itself? Based on the fact that I could not live without it, I certainly don’t think so. Based on the fact that it can be offered sometimes at a very steep price, it could be seen that way. In any case, I truly believe that with cheese there is so much more to it than meets the eye. Next time you are picking up a piece of cheese, I would like you to start scratching the surface to be surprised at the discovery of how rich the cheese is. I am not talking calories here; it is about the culture and geography, the history and terroir – connections to our various inheritances. But be warned, when you start scratching with enough curiosity, chances are you won’t stop anytime soon. I am still scratching, still learning and still discovering fascinating stories. And this is why I call myself a storyteller. American novelist Brad Kessler said, “Every raw milk cheese is an artifact of the land. It carries the imprint of the earth from which it came. It’s a living piece of geography. A sense of place.”

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This is the reason I choose to embark on this fascinating journey through textures and endless layers, through culture with extra dimensions and complexity. Cheese just takes you places. Take a cheese like the French Beaufort Alpage for instance. This very special cheese is one of the few noble Alpine cheeses. The origin of Beaufort-like cheeses goes back thousands of years with Pliny the Younger (61–112 AD) mentioning its existence at the court of Emperor Trajan(13th Emperor of the Roman Empire). The official Beaufort would see its origin in the 1200s. It is produced exclusively from unpasteurised cow’s milk in the French Alps from the milk of cows that are lucky enough to graze on sustainable mountain pastures. In that part of the world, the mountainsides are covered with snow for at least six months of the year, but as the snow melts around June, the ‘alpage’ (or high altitude grazing pastures) comes to life, with hundreds of rare and indigenous grasses and flowers growing and blooming. Every year, a young man or woman will leave the village with around 40 cows in tow and start climbing up the mountains. By mid-August, they will be contemplating the valley from the top – around 3000 metres high. Every day, they will milk their cows and make cheese with simple tools in special huts (or chalets) readily available for them along the Alpage trail. Some Beaufort cheesemakers will stay from June to September in their summer chalet to produce the very sought after Beaufort d’Alpage. Beaufort has a characteristic shape – a large, thick wheel with concave sides. It is said that it allows farmers to easily transport the cheese down the mountains on donkeys’ backs.

flavours with amazing floral and herbal notes from the grazing grounds. It has a firm yet buttery taste and it melts oh so elegantly in your mouth… it oozes luxury. Now, the good news is that you don’t need an awful lot of this exquisite cheese to fall under its spell. Its idiosyncratic qualities will guarantee an immediate and long lasting sense of satisfaction. Its unique background should remind you how lucky you are to share such a deep connection with our ancestors. It only requires a little bit of time to seize and appreciate the greater value and complexity of the cheese you want to put in your mouth. So, next time you are at a cheese shop, take time to choose your next piece of cheese wisely. Ask the cheesemonger to share with you as much information or stories he or she has about the product. You suddenly allow luxury to become part of your daily life. A little bit of quality artisanal cheese will always have something to tell you and will leave you in a state of deep satisfaction. What’s more luxurious than that? /

VALERIE HENBEST IS THE OWNER OF SMELLY CHEESE SMELLYCHEESE.COM.AU

The end result is a cheese with meaty, salted caramel, honey and milky

breakfast at our table We love having people over for breakfast – the regulars, the take-aways, the breakfast connoisseurs seeking out delectable new ways to start the day. Some make short work of our Barossa pancetta and chilli fried egg banh mi. Others linger over house made granola, French pastries and a smooth cold drip espresso to really kick off the day. So . . . breakfast at our table?

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Luxury escapes Y O U D O N ’ T N E E D T O T R AV E L FA R T O E X P E R I E N C E A L U X U RY G E TAWAY. S O U T H AU S T R A L I A H A S M A N Y O P T I O N S I N A L L PA R T S O F T H E S TAT E T O R E L A X I N L U X U R I O U S C O M F O R T W H I L E E N J O Y I N G O U R U N I Q U E , B E AU T I F U L A N D D I V E R S E L A N D S C A P E .

THE VINEYARD RETREAT Nestled in a working vineyard, The Vineyard Retreat is the perfect place for a luxurious McLaren Vale getaway. Featuring four guest houses (The Ardmore, The Strand, The Manhattan and The Highland), each includes magnificent views of the McLaren Vale wine region while the property’s heated outdoor Jacuzzi allows guests to view the neighbouring d’Arenberg winery and the ocean beyond while they relax. The rooms are a mix of casual comfort and modern sophistication and The Vineyard Retreat can put guests in contact with a private chef and organise chauffeured transport and behind the scenes wine experiences./

THE VINEYARD RETREAT 165 WHITINGS ROAD, BLEWITT SPRINGS THEVINEYARDMV.COM.AU

KINGSFORD HOMESTEAD Located on the edge of the Barossa and just a 45-minute drive north of Adelaide, Kingsford Homestead is an award winning luxury country retreat, which made Conde Naste’s Hot List in 2013 as one of the world’s best new hotels and spas. The historic homestead was built in 1856, was once used for the long-running drama McLeod’s Daughters before the Athrens family bought the two-storey homestead in 2009 to turn it into a five-star retreat. Featuring seven suites (including the private Stonemason’s Cottage), the homestead has a signature outdoor bath located in a secluded part of the property, and features many areas for bushwalking, has in-room spa treatments and you can arrange to have dinner in Kingsford’s expansive wine cellar. Chef Stuart Oldfield, who uses local ingredients from Barossa producers and growers, designs all the seasonal menus at Kingsford./ KINGSFORD HOMESTEAD NORTH PARA RIVER, BAROSSA VALLEY KINGSFORDHOMESTEAD.COM.AU

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THE FRAMES A perfect couples retreat on the River Murray, The Frames features three luxury villas built on a cliff-top overlooking Australia’s largest river. Featuring private outdoor areas, pools, spas and in-room dining with meals by a local chef, The Frames is designed “for couples who refuse to settle for anything but the best”. If you want to leave the sanctuary of your private villa, The Frames offers exclusive tours including a half-day Backwater Secrets Tour, which is a guided boat ride through the creeks and backwaters to discover the local wildlife (with lunch and morning tea) and then there are the Champagne sunset cruises on a century-old restored boat. The Frames also utilises the talents of a local chef to cook three-course gourmet meals./

THE FRAMES LOT 7, PANORAMA ROAD, PARINGA THEFRAMES.COM.AU

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE Named the world’s fourth best hotel by Travel + Leisure magazine in 2014, Southern Ocean Lodge is the jewel in Australia’s secluded accommodation crown. Designed by acclaimed local architect Max Pritchard, Southern Ocean Lodge features 21 luxury suites atop a cliff overlooking majestic views of the Southern Ocean. You can dine on the Kangaroo Island inspired creations by Chef Jack Ingram, who returned to the Lodge as Executive Chef in 2015, and enjoy luxurious spa treatments. The Lodge also organises personal adventures to discover the natural wonders, wildlife and epicurean attractions of Kangaroo Island, one of Australia’s most unspoiled natural treasures./

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE HANSON BAY ROAD, KINGSCOTE SOUTHERNOCEANLODGE.COM.AU

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S T O R Y: D AV I D K N I G H T P H O T O S : D AV I D K I R K L A N D, C O U RT E SY O F SA BA H TO U R I S M

Sensational Sabah FA M O U S F O R I T S E X O T I C A N I M A L S , S A B A H I S E M E R G I N G A S A L U X U R I O U S D E S T I N AT I O N ; P E R F E C T T O U N W I N D S U R ROU N D E D BY I N C R E D I B L E N AT U R A L W O N D E R S , I S L A N D G E TAWAY S , G O R G E O U S FO OD A N D, OF COU R S E, S OM E OF T H E WOR L D’ S M O S T FA S C I N AT I N G W I L D L I F E .

LOCATED IN MALAYSIAN BORNEO, Sabah isn’t the first place that comes to mind when you think of unwinding in Asia. Better known for its endangered wildlife over five-star resorts, the Malaysian state doesn’t attract as many Australians as Bali or Vietnam, but it is a place worth discovering even if you don’t encounter an elephant or an orangutan.

The relaxed pace of the state’s biggest city, Kota Kinabalu (KK), is the perfect place to start your Sabah adventure. With new five-star hotels in the plans, there is a lot of construction around the small city, including plenty of completed and yet to be completed malls. The small city loves its malls but it is emerging as a foodie destination with plenty on offer with its mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian residents offering authentic and sensational cuisine. The first eatery to check out is Welcome Seafood Restaurant, an ever-expanding buzzing dining destination offering delicious fresh seafood, a Sabah specialty. To discover more seafood head to one of the many food halls, where you can try fresh seafood such as lobster, crab and stingrays cooked on the spot. The Le Meridien is the most impressive of the current-crop of five-star hotels and its food is as wonderful as the deluxe rooms. With a new Italian restaurant Favola just completed to join the lobby’s recent facelift, the main dining area, Latest Recipe, contains five chef stations each offering fresh cuisine (including traditional local food, Japanese and Chinese) with an interactive chef cooking fresh for the customer. Try the local Malay station, as the Head Chef wants to bring traditional Sabah food to a more exclusive audience. Other hotels to discover in KK are the Hyatt, and its wonderful Japanese restaurant Nagisa, as well as the Sutera Harbour Resort. A short boat ride from KK takes you to Manukan Island. Unspoiled by an influx of resorts or bars, Manukan Island is a relaxing jungle island getaway. Manukan accommodates day travellers to snorkel, swim, laze on the beach and dine as well as overnight guests who get to stay in the impressive chalets on the beach as well as the hillside. Although you

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Kota Kinabalu

climb many stairs to the jungle hillside chalets, the view of the beach and ocean once you get to you luxury villa is worth the short workout. KK and its surrounds are famous for its sunset (ranked the sixth best sunset in the world by Huffington Post, as I was reminded plenty of times on this journey) and a short 1.5km hike to Sunset Point is one of the best places to catch the area’s famous evening tourist attraction. A short plane journey from KK is Sandakan, the gateway to wildlife adventures to the west. A perfect hub to experience these adventures is Borneo Nature Lodge, an eco resort located on the Kinabatangan River. The rooms are basic, but you spend little time in your room, as you head on boat cruises to try and get a peek at some of Borneo’s famous inhabitants: orangutans, proboscis monkeys, gibbons and pygmy elephants. There is nothing more remarkable than being on a boat while watching a herd of elephants cross a river or seeing a couple of orangutans swing on treetops in the distance. Catching the island’s wildlife in their natural element is one of the reasons to head to Borneo. And Borneo Nature Lodge is the ideal hub for these wildlife journeys./

PLACES TO STAY KOTA KINABALU /

Le Meridien LEMERIDIENKOTAKINABALU.COM

Hyatt Regency KINABALU.REGENCY.HYATT.COM/EN/HOTEL

Sutera Harbour Resort SUTERAHARBOUR.COM SANDAKAN /

Four Points by Sheraton FOURPOINTSSANDAKAN.COM OTHER /

Borneo Nature Lodge BORNEONATURELODGE.COM.MY

Manukan Island Resort MANUKAN.COM

* The writer was a guest of Sabah Tourism

*As of September 2015, Smart Traveller advises to “reconsider your need to travel” to the eastern coastal region of Sabah (especially towns between Sandakan and Tawau) including the nearby Manukan Island

islands, due to the threat of kidnapping. Go to smartraveller.gov.au for more information.

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Luxury experiences

ADELAIDE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

FACIALISTA’S

When you are constantly on the go, nothing is more luxurious than simply taking a break and just letting a peaceful moment wash over you. Let the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra be your guide, as the beauty of music envelops you. Be swept away to far away locations all the while sitting in the comfortable ambiance of Adelaide’s best venues. Indulge in an evening out with the world’s greatest music, whether it is Bach, Beethoven, Bernstein or the Beatles in the ASO’s Master, Great Classics, and Showcase Series concerts./

Facialista’s is an oasis of calm in leafy Hyde Park providing first class ‘Lab Light Luxury’ featuring safe and effective cosmeceutical treatments from innovative skin care laboratories, Omnilux LED Light Therapy, luxury perfumes and pampering experiences. Facialista’s uses safe and proven skin care technologies and products from leading brands Priori and Ultraceuticals. Facialista’s is your one stop shop for bespoke and signature facials, eyebrow design, manicure, pedicure and waxing./ 270 UNLEY ROAD HYDE PARK P. 82718435

ASO.COM.AU

FACIALISTAS.COM.AU

PILATUS AIRCRAFT

THE AUSTRALASIAN CIRCA 1858

The Pilatus PC-12 single-engine turboprop first entered service in 1994 and from the outset it was an incredible success. With over 1,400 aircraft in service, the Swiss manufacturer is again offering a host of new features for the Pilatus PC-12 NG. The latest generation Wi-Fi entertainment system throughout the cabin enables passengers to connect wirelessly to movies, music, and satellite radio using their personal devices such as smartphones, tablets, and laptops. The same devices can also display a moving map that tracks the aircrafts location, speed, altitude, and time to arrival. The base price for the 2015 Pilatus PC-12 NG is USD 3.88 million, with a typically equipped executive configuration costing about $USD 4.8 million delivered in Australia./

With its boutique accommodation and fine dining, The Australasian Circa 1858 – adjacent Goolwa’s Wharf Precinct on the Fleurieu Peninsula – is an unashamedly couples-only luxury retreat with weekend ‘foodie’ packages on offer to the discerning experience seeker. Wheeled discreetly to the door of each bespoke modern Asian suite is a superb chef-prepared breakfast (or brunch, if the 10.30am delivery time is chosen). Chef Juliet Michell (also a trained pâtissier) meticulously creates and prepares all food in these gourmet escapes. Each ‘foodie’ package includes the popular Saturday public dining experience in the stunning onsite restaurant, The Australasian Dining Room./ 1 PORTER STREET, GOOLWA P. 8555 1088

PILATUS-AIRCRAFT.COM

AUSTRALASIAN1858.COM