Construction Elements – Patch Pockets

This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction, offering different methods from those detailed in the pattern guide sheet.

The ability to personalise garments is one of the great benefi ts of being able to sew. Adding in-seam or patch pockets can provide both functional and decorative elements to many garments.

Patch Pockets Because patch pockets are a feature on the outside of the garment, care is needed in placement for the most fl attering effect. When using printed fabric, matching the print (especially a plaid or stripe) will often give a more professional appearance to the garment.

2 Tip: Make a template pattern of the actual fi nished pocket in tissue paper and trace match points so that the pocket can be cut to assist in pattern matching.

Any shape can be used for patch pockets and the use of a cardboard template will assist in pressing the seam allowances accurately. See photo 1.

Interfacing is applied to the top edge of the pocket so it will retain its shape; however, if the fabric is very lightweight, consider interfacing the whole pocket to give it more body.

When stitching the upper fl ap in place, stitch towards the fold of the fabric on both sides and trim the seam allowance in the fl ap area only. See photo 2.

Turn the fl ap to the wrong side of the pocket and slip the cardboard template in place. See photo 3. Press the sides and bottom of the pocket against the cardboard. To form a mitre on the corners, fold the corners in and press in place. Then fold the edge seams in until the mitre folds sit together. See photos 4 and 5.

If the pocket is to be placed on a curved area of the body, ie bust or hip position, place the garment and pocket over a tailor’s ham to build a curve into the pocket. Tack in place around all the edges and diagonally across. See photo 6. This will hold the pocket in place for the machine stitching.

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garments can be a great source of ideas. See photos 7 and 8. Some shapes, particularly those involving curves, are much easier to construct when the pocket is lined. Stitch the lining to the edge of the pocket facing area, leaving a 5cm (2in) gap in the centre of the seam. Using smaller seam allowances (8mm [3/8in]) and stitching towards each curve with a shorter stitch length are also helpful when sewing curves more easily. See photo 9.

Snip very small notches around the curved sections of the seam allowance before the lining is turned to the wrong side of the pocket. These clips need to be small so that they will close up when the pocket is turned and not leave gaps which make an uneven surface on the pocket. See photo 10.

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Lined pockets can be topstitched in place or hand-stitched from the wrong side of the garment piece. Another method is to use a machine blind-hem stitch to attach the lining to the garment. This takes some practice and works best on pockets with square edges. See photos 12 and 13.

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