Perfect in the Pool, Brilliant at the Beach

at the Beach By Cate Purcell We all know how disappointing it is to create a garment and not have it fi t. A comfortable, attractive swimsuit fi ts properly, is neither too large nor too small, and conforms to the contours of the body without sagging, straining or wrinkling. Pattern alteration is often necessary to achieve good fi t in a garment, especially swimwear. Use this collection of alteration guidelines to solve some of the most common fi tting problems.

Asuccessful swimsuit depends on a combination of factors which need careful consideration before you take on the task. As swimsuits nearly always fi t the body closely, choose patterns that do the same. The chosen fabric must have a suitable amount of stretch for the pattern. Finally, the fi t must be just right. The lengthwise fi t of a swimsuit is just as important as the fi t around the body, especially as it is more diffi cult to alter once the fabric is cut.

The following information will help with specifi c problems and may be applied to all swimwear and activewear patterns.

1. Measurements – must be correctly and accurately taken. See diagram 1.

Width: Compare your personal measurements with those of the pattern. The joy of a multi-sized pattern is they are perfect for any fi gure shape … select the size you need from the size chart on the pattern, for the three measurements – bust, waist and hip – and blend the side seam accordingly. See diagram 2.

Diagram 1 –How to Measure Measure these areas, holding the tape fi rmly around the body. 1. Bust: around the fullest part of the bust and straight across the back. 2. Waist: tie narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over the elastic. 3. Hip: around the body at the fullest part, usually 18 - 23cm (7 –9in) below waist. 4. Back Waist Length: from the most prominent bone at the base of neck to the natural waistline. 5. Crotch length: measure from the front waist around the crotch and between the legs to the back waist. 6. Bust radius: from bust point to the base of the bust mound.

Diagram 2 – Selecting the right size

Front Use a French curve rule to curve the side seam between the sizes required.

Front

XS XL L M S

Diagram 3 – Crotch width

Front

Overlap the front and back crotch seam. At the narrowest part of the crotch area measure in or out the amount to be decreased or increased. Blend the new line back to the original pattern on both the front and back leg. Diagram 4 – Shortening

Cut the pattern along the lengthening and shortening line. Overlap the pattern sections to decrease the length. Tape in place.

Front

Back

Back Blend all adjusted lines back to original lines. Diagram 4 – Lengthening

Place a piece of pattern tissue under the pattern and spread the sections to increase the length. Tape in place when the adjustment has been made.

Front Back

Adjust for back waist length here.

Adjust for crotch length here.

The amount to increase or decrease the back waist length may be different to the amount for the crotch length. Just remember that whatever amount is increased or decreased on the front must be applied to the back.

Sizes XS S M L XL Crotch length* 63cm (25in) 68cm (27in) 73cm (29in) 78cm (31in) 85cm (33 ½ in) Diagram 5 – Crotch length measurement chart

* These measurements are for use with Kwik•Sew patterns only.

Upper body length: Use your bust measurement to select your pattern size. Compare your personal measurement with that of the back waist length stated on the pattern envelope. Use the shortening/lengthening line marked on the upper part of the pattern. Lengthen/shorten the same amount front and back. See diagram 4.

Crotch length: Compare the measurement with the measurement stated for your size, on the table below. See diagram 5. If the length needs adjusting, divide the difference by two and add or subtract this amount to both the front and back at the crotch lengthening/shortening line.

NOTE: All length adjustments (back waist and crotch length) must be made to any design or princess-seam panels. See diagram 6.

2. Bust –Generally patterns are designed for a B bust cup size. If you have a larger cup size than this, you will need to increase the bust area of the pattern. The pattern will need to be spread 1.25cm (½in) for each cup size. See diagram 7.

Bust cup support – if you require additional support or a ‘little lift’, it is possible to insert bust cups into the front lining of your swimsuit. During the fi tting of the toile, point 3, try on the garment wearing a well supporting bra. Mark the bust point and measure to the point under the bust mound. This measurement is called the bust radius. Transfer the bust point to the pattern and use a compass to draw the bust radius for the position of the bust cups. See diagram 8.

Diagram 6 – Princess seams

Increase or decrease the same amount on the princess panel as was adjusted on the front panel.

Front

Side front Diagram 7 – Bust cup adjustment

Spread the pattern 1.25cm (½in) for each cup size

Front

Front Side front

Blend the new lines back into the original pattern. Blend adjusted lines back to original pattern.

Plain front adjustment Princess-seam adjustment Diagram 8 – Bust cups

Front

Bust point Bust radius

Use a compass, set to the bust radius to draw a circle.

Diagram 9 – Leg height Diagram 10 –Prominent tummy Diagram 11 – Flat bottom

working with high-stretch fabrics this is not possible as the wearing ease is in the fabric not the pattern. Test the pattern by cutting a toile (a trial garment cut in similar, but less expensive fabric). You do not have to put elastic into the leg or armhole areas for the toile. Stitch the seams, then put the garment on and check the areas where the pattern alterations took place. Identify these areas by the presence of extreme sag lines or pull lines; minor lines in the armhole and leg areas will be pulled in by the elastic during the fi nal construction. Vertical or horizontal sag lines mean the garment is too big in that area and needs to be taken in. Pull lines usually point directly to the problem and mean the garment is too small and needs to be let out.

At this point you should also be looking at the leg area to determine if the leg needs to be higher or lower at the side seam. If you have an existing swimsuit with the correct leg height, try this on over the top of the toile and mark the leg position. This will be transferred to the pattern and the leg area reshaped. See diagram 9. If you have a prominent tummy, you may fi nd this has caused horizontal wrinkles across the abdomen and the top of the leg. The crotch will feel tight and the back seam will pull forward. To eliminate this problem, you will need to add extra length into the centre front. See diagram 10. If you have a fl at ‘seat’ there may be excess fabric in the lower back toile. Pin out the excess amount. The back crotch seam and the back leg opening will need to shortened. See diagram 11.

If you have had to make major alterations to the pattern after the toile fi tting, it is advisable to make another toile to ensure the alterations have been successful in eliminating the problems.

Now you have a perfectly fi tting pattern, follow the pattern instruction sheet to construct the swimsuit. For success, use a 3-thread super-stretch stitch (for more information on this, consult your machine manual) on the overlocker with woolly nylon thread in the loopers and the needle (use a needlethreader to thread the needle). Use a size 75/11 stretch needle in the overlocker and the sewing machine. Front Back Do not decrease the crotch width Draw the curve of the new leg area Overlap the side seams for a smooth curve Mark the amount to be raised Rule a vertical line and align the CF of the upper section against it. Cut the pattern along the crotch lengthen/ shorten line from CF, leaving a hinge at the side seam. Pivot the lower front section for the amount to be lengthened The crotch area doesn’t need extra width. Retrace the original crotch area, blending into the new leg area. Rule a vertical line from the lengthen/ shorten line to the crotch side of the leg area. Cut along these two adjustment lines to separate the pattern. Slide the separated pattern section across until the centre back becomes straight. Blend the adjusted centre-back seam. Redraw the leg opening, blending back to the original line.